Digital IR

[Ari]

Hi Peter,
It's for both color and B&W. A side effect of going through the DNG Profiler is that the WB range in your LR/ACR will greatly expand, more in line with what you need for IR.
So it would be a benefit no matter what you shoot.
And your images will look better coming out of the camera, too.
I'm not sure if your other issue is firmware-related, I think many people report the same thing with regards to how the camera previews and renders. But I could be wrong about that.
Either way, if you have all the tools set up properly, you're better armed against what IR will throw at you.

[jon.oman]

Hi Peter,
It's for both color and B&W. A side effect of going through the DNG Profiler is that the WB range in your LR/ACR will greatly expand, more in line with what you need for IR.
So it would be a benefit no matter what you shoot.
And your images will look better coming out of the camera, too.
I'm not sure if your other issue is firmware-related, I think many people report the same thing with regards to how the camera previews and renders. But I could be wrong about that.
Either way, if you have all the tools set up properly, you're better armed against what IR will throw at you.

Hey, we posted at the same time!

[Peter De Smidt]

Got it, Guys. Thanks! I used to make bi-illuminant profiles with the Adobe profile maker.....Just a note: Nikon View NX software white balances just find with IR photos, but the software is otherwise so bad that Ill never use it. Another way to go is to do as best you can in LR, and then make a mask such that the whole image is selected. This is easy to do by making a gradient outside of the image area. You can add a white balance and hue adjustment to the mask. IF it doesn't go far enough, you can duplicate the mask. Doing this, I got really close the the View NX result. I don't have time to go the profile route tonight any more, but I'll give it a try later in the week. Thanks again.

[Ari]

Peter, Ari is correct. And the link he gives is the one I used to create my Adobe D810 camera profile. For in-camera viewing purposes, you can set your 'picture control' to monochrome. But, make sure you output a RAW image file. Then, instead of using the default Adobe camera profile, load the Z9 camera profile you made following the instructions that are in the link Ari gave you. That should eliminate the red cast. You can then set a white balance in ACR. Finally, load into Photoshop and do your channel swap and B&W conversion if that is what you want to end up with.

Peter, I can confirm Jon is also correct.
Also, since Nikon is alien gear to me, and Jon knows it very well, I'd take his advice, not mine.

[Peter De Smidt]

Moving to the topic of filters, for my general polarizer and neutral density filters, I greatly prefer magnetic filters, such as the ones form Kase. I get them in the largest size I need, and then use adapters for smaller diameter lenses. The filters just pop on and off, instead of having to be screwed on. This makes changing filters much easier, especially when the camera is in an awkward position. Today I saw that there's an ICE 760nm magnetic filter: https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Infr..._t1_B09HQ6FQH1
I ordered one, and I'll report back after I give it a try. They claim to only have a 10 stop reduction in light, which seems odd, as my Hoya R72 is more like 15 stops. If that's really true, it would be very welcome.

Well, I just thought about this, and the filter could really only cut 10 stops, but then the IR blocking filter in the camera could cut more.....Oh, well. I had my hopes up. I'm hoping the exposures aren't much longer than I currently use....

[jon.oman]

I will have to check out magnetic filters. I always worry about damaging the threads on the lens while putting a filter on it.

[Ari]

I went with the most color-neutral filters I know of, and they're also affordable: Haida's M10 filters.
I only use ND filters: ND1.8, ND3.0 and ND5.0
The M10 II filter holder is nice and works very well, a drop-in holder, and there's a wide range of M10 filters.
You have to buy connecting rings for each thread size, they're made of good aluminum, and also inexpensive.

I agree 100% with what this guy says about the M10 system:

[Peter De Smidt]

That looks like a good system, Ari.

Anyway, I did the profile thing, and then I processed out another photo from the other day.

[Ari]

That looks like a good system, Ari.

Anyway, I did the profile thing, and then I processed out another photo from the other day.

More nuanced, better range of tones. It looks a lot more balanced.
What do you think? Any issues in processing?

Like some of the newer filter companies, Haida uses the Schott glass formula (patent expired) to make their filters. Haida's been in the filter business for a long time.
I've used them for several years, and what brings me back to them each time is the color neutrality.
One less thing to deal with, and the filters are clear and sharp.

[Peter De Smidt]

Thanks, Ari. It was pretty straight forward.