D 23 Users

[Michael R]

Generally speaking, freezing liquid developers is not a good idea. You’d have to try freezing some D-23 and then see if there are any problems - ie crystalization/precipitation.

In large volume settings D-23 was typically run replenished. XTOL and clones can be convenient because the developer serves as its own replenisher. Other options for large volumes might be things like Ilford DD but you’d have to do the math regarding economy. For one-shot Rodinal is hard to beat but again do the math.

[Tin Can]

I use PQ for 11X14 any film


and ancient NOS Plates

[Alan Townsend]

Seems I just bought me a dip and dunk developer apparatus for X-ray films that is in fact 3 big sinks. I intend to use D-23 1+3 but it needs huge volume. So my question is: Can be D23 frozen? I dont see why but better ask, maybe some of you did it already.

Wow, a moderately old d23 thread!

D-23 is the only developer I use. I standardized on it about 35 years ago when I got tired of experimenting with developers. I use it 1:3 for all camera films, mixing it directly to that dilution instead of dilution a stock solution, which makes no sense to me. At this high dilution, it mixes almost instantly. Yes, I use the pinch of sulfite thing. I believe it will keep 3-4 months at that dilution in air tight container. A foam float on a large container may work. Freezing would not be very practical, unless you live on an antarctic research facility. Boiling might make more sense, in order to drive all the air out of the solution before tanking with floating lid. Never tried boiling, but may work.

For both Xray and ortho litho films, I use a 1:7 dilution. I always use as a one shot developer. I also use plain fixer mixed about 30 grams/liter as a one shot fixer. This is about 10% of normal strength for hypo. One shot makes sense to me because I am always an intermittent processor of films and am very frugal. Ortho litho films get 2-3 minutes of development time giving pretty low contrast, and are very compatible with older contact printing processes such as cyanotype, kalitype, vandyke, salt print, etc., because it has a very non-linear response curve that is very similar, and can give nearly linear print response directly without using the "digital negative" crutch.

Fuji HRU gets 20 minutes with minimum agitation using my Doran sheet film tank holding 12 sheets of 4x5 in 52 fl. oz. solution. High dilution of D-23 give semi-compensating effect, high local sharpness with mackie lines, but more visible grain. Green Xray films have much lower local contrast due to the halation of the rear emulsion, benefits from this.

I develop camera films like Kentmere 100, TMX, TMY, Fomapan 200 and others for 20 minutes using 1:3. This is not the greatest developer of all time. It's simple and works well at very low cost and is easy-peasy at high dilutions. It has no tinting effect on film, allowing simple zone system in the darkroom methods.

Have fun with it,

Alan Townsend

[Daniel Unkefer]

New 8x10 Kodak Basket Line Installed 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr

I have decided to finally set up by Kodak 8x10 Hard Rubber Tanks, with floating lids, and Kodak Film Baskets. I can do 18 8x10's in a run, or 48 sheets of 4x5. Or 18 rolls of 120 film in a go. I think I will start with Replenished D23 as a starter. I have 500 sheets of 8x10 HRU, as well as multiple boxes of various 8x10 films. I just bought a fresh box of Arista 200 8x10 (On Sale) which I think is FOMA 200. Also I have an 8x10 Kodak Hard Rubber Wash Tank, it is in the front right, hooked up well and running great.

I've been talking to Jay Defur over on Flickr, and this is how he does his 8x10 HRU, in replenished D23. Seventeen Liters! KISS. My Thanks to Jay, his portraits on 8x10 HRU are over the top.