guys, the 12 volt battery you need is available at www.allelectronics as their stock # GC-1223 for $15.7
guys, the 12 volt battery you need is available at www.allelectronics as their stock # GC-1223 for $15.7
My power transistors run with no heat at all, so compound maybe not needed if unit is normally operating...Originally Posted by Bernice Loui
Let me check the trimmer placement... I think it's the one by the output switch (I have to go over to my storage to see it)... He said there was some thread-lok on both, but you can check if it is removed from trimmer, and that is upgraded and that trimmer is it, mostly rotated to lower value low range... Or sync outlet is about 31V... (Will check my unit this week sometime...)
With gel cell, haven't yet, but expect over 100 pops at 200w/s or more at lower power... Uses a lot of power idling, as Brett said, p/s swings up to 25A recycling... Leaving on for over an hour will drain most of what's left in battery (cycle on/off when needed)...
Other update is in heads.... Trigger coil is green candy piece looking component on pcb inside head (with a cap next to it)... One head wasn't triggering, but noticed trigger coil was half dangling off... One lead broken, and the other a dry solder hole... Need new trigger coil, Brett has them, but expensive, so maybe microsurgery to the thin lead, or find donor head for parts... And secure coil to pcb with hot goo, epoxy etc to support coil to board...
70's/80's caps often not so good!!! I have reformed some from 40's/50's gear that are still holding up well, but re-capping stuff before it goes into heavy use... But OK to cap test a corpse unit usually if ok (at least tube stuff)...
Steve K
I checked-the Powersonic battery #'s are PS-1220 for the 2.5 amp and PS1229L for the 2.9 amp.
Ebay has several of the 2.3 amp batteries in this shape for 14-15 bucks
I have multiple Vivitar 365 flashes and I've made up 2 power supplies for them using a 12V "buck transformer" that steps up the voltage to 365 volts. Using a LiPo 12 volt battery in the newest, I've cut the full power manual recycling time down to 2 seconds.
Ordered generic of this... Worked, but first battery was defective... Will order the 2.9ah next time...
Thanks for looking!!!
Steve K
Guys. I have a question..are the batteries wired up in parallel for more amperage or in series for 24 volts? just curious..
Depends on the batteries. 200B runs on about 12VDC, NOT 24 volts. Apply 24 volts, serious damage to the 200B will happen.
There are a number of 12volt packaged lead acid batteries that are a direct fit into the 200B, BUT these lead acid batteries cannot and should never be charged using the standard Norman 200B charger. There will be a problems to very serious problem if this is done.
Alternative is to use 10 each, Nicad or Ni-mh batteries that can fit into the 200B battery space.
Bernice
The battery deed is done. The 4Ah or 4,000mah Ni-mh sub-C cells with solder tabs arrived. These are found on Amazon and else where, intended for portable power tool battery pack re-builds.
https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-.../dp/B08ZK8DTDR
Arrived in packs of 5 each:
Made up a 12 volt pack of 10 cells, lashed up with 3M blue tape. OK enough for now until some proper shrink wrap can be procured and installed.
Fits easy into the 200B battery space. Nearly twice the battery capacity, half the weight of a lead acid battery pack with about the same cost. Charges up with the standard 200B charger in trickle or rapid mode. If rapid mode is used, Timer is a MUST (about 3 hours to full charge) as there is no thermal cut off to shut off the high current or rapid charge as was built into the OEM 200B nicad battery pack. Over charging the Ni-mh batteries will damage them or cause a significant problem.
Felt was used to pad up the extra space in the 200B battery pack area.
All checks out, the fast cycling to 200W/S is back, bit more than OEM flash output due to the larger value flash capacitors with the predictable flash output as 200Bs are known for. Have a Foto project idea for this portable flash unit, but 200W/S could prove to be no where near enough.
Bernice
Went to storage, and now have strobe in front of me...
Now checking sync voltage and is 30.5V... Trimmer without goo is center top nearer the power on/off switch... He said mine was tweaked for lower sync voltage already...
Great about using the old charger... Initally didn't want to use it as its heavy and trying to grow up to be a toaster, but read in the manual it can operate it on AC while charging battery pack (slowly), so that would be useful for shooting where strobe would be on for a long time... (Was expecting to re-purpose charger as a car battery trickle charger, audio amplifier etc...) But now will save it if I build the battery pack... Brett said a new charged pack will give 350-400 flashes, but I expect yours maybe much more... I don't need too many flashes per charge now, but that can change quickly... ;-) And now that you mentioned it, the pack is getting a little hefty with the gel battery inside... :-(
Am now looking at this lamp head I ended up using... Mine came with the LX-3 (?) Auto head which fired, but auto not working... Brett said those were trash, so got another LH-2 to replace it (cheap online)... But had no mounting and hole in bottom was stripped, but managed to shoot with it on a small tripod... Ordered another very cheap LH-2 for parts and got no tube, but had the modeling light reflector and stand mount/bracket, but also noticed it had the straight 10' grey cord, not the curly 5 footer (hate coiled cords!!!)... But that head had the trigger coil issue, so swapped the trigger boards out... But need to get the other working when I need the short cord when strobe is on camera... Or when 2 heads can be used together with the Y-cord (up to 4 can be used)...
Was also interested in the modeling light, but found out these were made for the 500 series packs, works on the 200b, but modeling light was powered by 120 VAC from AC pack... So does nothing with 200b... Measured connector with unit on and voltmeter just triggered head... Was hoping for 12v there so I could try an auto LED back-up lamp for the modeling light... Still can run it from a separate battery, but don't know where the bulb shines etc... I will try it sometime...
Strap is good on mine, but removed it to save space when packed... With long cord, it's easy to leave pack on ground under tall stand while sitting in its bag (a medium old black Tenba which holds entire rig)... I think stand mounting for most everything right now, until I need camera mounting sometimes...
I figure best testing now would be with a digi, so I can see results then and there... Was going to test it with my older digi cameras, but none had a pc socket... Just ordered a used Wein safe-sync for adapter, and figure there's another layer of protection for the camera sync... One job for this strobe will be to see if a house, building, something big can be shot with this from some distance with maybe the higher ISO/faster lens wide open...
Also got cheep a pair of Quantum radio slaves that say they work 500' away (but doubt it)... Could use it to fill a half lit building at night maybe???
Been brainstorming other uses for it... It is a solution looking for a problem it can solve well... Still surprised one found me after all this time... ;-)
Great job on yours!!!!
Steve K
Thanks Steve for the note on the 200B trimmers, I'll carefully give them a spin having some idea of what they do.
Got a lot of 200B/200C, LH2K series heads on the way. After they have been checked out, some known good ones could need another home. Never liked that coiled cord on the LH2, always made the set up clunky and more difficult to use. The newer LH2K lost the coiled cord and Norman revised a few items that appears to make it easier to live with.
Have a Foto project idea for these portable strobe units. I'll try it out with the 35mm film camera first. If it goes good, will need more portable strobe power for the view camera version of this idea.
Bernice
Folks,
I have two Norman 200B's that I used extensively in the 80's and 90's but they have not been used since that time and are completely dead.
I charged the battery and the ready light blinks on the lamp head but they will not fire.
I know a little about electronics, like positive, negative, continuity, voltage and amps. I can also solider but that is the extent of my knowledge.
My question is: would it be a task I could handle to replace the capacitors? I know capacitors can be dangerous because they hold a charge.
If so, where should I order the capacitors from and if possible what is the part number so I can be sure to order the correct ones.
Should I use solider with flux or solider without flux.
OR
Should I bite the bullet and send the 200B's to Holly enterprises?
Thanks for any advise you can share.
By the way, I am a cautious person so I will be careful.
Gary
"People take different roads seeking fulfillment and happiness. Just because they're not on your road doesn't mean they've gotten lost." - H. Jackson Brown
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks