You still don't get it, Michael. But that's OK for now. This thread is about how to get to first base first.
You still don't get it, Michael. But that's OK for now. This thread is about how to get to first base first.
I think Lynn Radeka's kit looks great! High precision machined carriers make the work easier and more repeatable. Certainly the instructions that come with the set
But I think a couple registration pins and a matching punch would be enough for a proof of concept.
In fact I exactly get it. You’re just trying make it sound much more complex than it actually is by using a lot of synonyms. But that’s ok for now.
Bill, I have used Lynn Radeka’s system and it is very good. The part I don’t love is taping things together, but some people prefer that. Masking systems like Radeka, Inglis etc. are more complex than just a punch and pins mostly because they are intended to support a full range of masks in addition to the standard unsharp CRM. For example, in some cases rather than just printing a sandwich, you need to print negatives and masks separately, which means reloading the carrier, which means you need to accurately register not only the film, but the carrier seating in the negative stage of the enlarger.
Michael - I have more than two entire machinist's cabinets full of dedicated punch and register gear, with not a single duplicate piece - masking capacity for three very distinct varieties of color printing, plus black and white work, multiple enlargers, and kinds of equipment you've never even seen or heard of, which I am highly proficient using. Yes, explain what you do know. But please don't contradict me, because you're simply out of your league. I've been doing this for a long time. You're not doing anyone a favor that way.
As far as investing in gear, it's getting hard to find matched sets of the serious older Condit or Durst equipment. I don't know Heiland's price structure. One does NOT need a registered carrier for the kind of application under question. But if serious long-term use is in mind, and an 8x10 enlarger somewhere on the horizon, that just keeps going down the rabbit hole to the possibility of an 8X10 camera too. Might as well order up a punch and matching mask exposure frame with a 3-hole linear pattern for the long side of the film : two holes for the 10" side, plus an intermediate fixed punch position for 7 inch film.
Otherwise, if a 4x5 punch is used, and punches on the LONG side of the film, it can also potentially be adapted for 5x7 film on the short side. But the greater the distance, the better the accuracy, provided everything involved (including the tape) is dimensionally stable polyester or mylar based rather than acetate.
Yes, yes, Drew. We know you have a warehouse full of Area 51 photo gear and a dedicated darkroom, cleanroom and laboratory for each individual negative.
Be careful not to cross the border, Michael. I had Loyalist ancestors chased up there during the Revolutionary War, and they're still not welcomed back until they apologize. Keep acting this way and you're going to have to bring along a whole stack of beaver pelts and a polar bear hide too. We still have the ancestral flintlock and powder horn, and it probably still works. It was last fired as recently as 1915, so the powder might still be dry !
I once saw a beaver. But it might have been an otter, or a bilge rat. It was in Vermont though.
Most likely a beaver...but possibly an otter. Definitely not a bilge rat though, because, well, here in Vermont (just as in California apparently) we do like to keep our powder dry!
I can only say I used register punches that would allow me to place a white or black spot of 1/1000 inch anywhere I wanted on a 20 1/2 x 25 1/2 inch sheet of film. It was nifty but all that's left is a roof prism and a few empty cartons of film that I use for flat files.
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