What's the diameter of the shutter opening in a Sinar Shutter? I have a lens I'd like to use with one so I can sync a flash with it, but I don't know if it would vignette the lens.
What's the diameter of the shutter opening in a Sinar Shutter? I have a lens I'd like to use with one so I can sync a flash with it, but I don't know if it would vignette the lens.
I measured 82mm at the front of the opening and 75mm at the back. I don't know if different shutters will have different measurements. There have been several versions.
Keith Pitman
Scott, my thread would help with a similar issue.
https://www.largeformatphotography.i...-swiss-cameras
My solution is making a custom mounting ring.
Your solution also depends on whether you mount the lens in the normal direction to the sinar shutter,
or in the reverse like my example which has a less clearance between the lensboard and the shutter blades.
Peco Profia to Norma Shutter Adapter by Nokton48, on Flickr
A friend (he's a clockmaker/camera tech) made me this Norma Shutter to Plaubel Peco Profia Adapter which works great. Some day I will paint it Norma green.
Flikr Photos Here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/
“The secret of getting ahead is getting started.”
― Mark Twain
Here’s another one: The aluminum ring was machined by a friend. It was necessary because the back of this lens would have extended into the Sinar shutter. The Sinar shutter is mounted in reversed position using a Luland adapter so it would fit on the Chamonix camera.
Keith Pitman
I should mention that Sinar mentions in the Norma Shutter Manual that the rear cell of the lens should ideally be within 1mm of the front of the shutter blades.
In this way mechanical vignetting can be avoided in some situations/certain lenses. I have always tried to adhere to this, of course impossible if the lens diameter is bigger than the shutter opening
Flikr Photos Here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/
“The secret of getting ahead is getting started.”
― Mark Twain
If you don't have access to metal working facilities you can always use wood and a large hole saw. This is 25mm (1") plywood, you could layer thinner pieces to get the correct thickness.
You would need a robust drill press, plenty of patience, and to clamp everything very securely. A fire extinguisher might come in handy on thicker pieces.
There are also all sorts of Sinar 'top hat' boards that can be altered to suit.
The problem is that I no longer have a drill press nor do I have easy access to one (I don't think the woodworking club in my area is open at this time). I'm looking into 3D printing as an option. Still doing some investigating- I've had some wildly varying recommendations on how to approach it so I'm still just as confused as I was before.
Bookmarks