Wow, thanks Ron, Bill, Michael, Goamules & Two23.
This amount of information is amazing, I tip my hat to you all. It's great that it all layers upon itself to describe what I've been suffering and confused with.
This was going to be my next question as a quick fix, but it make senses that this would change depending on focusing distances. I will look to invest in a #47 filter to focus through and see if this helps.
Wet Plate photography isn't as popular in the UK as it is in the USA so it is wonderful to reach out and receive solutions from you all.
Thanks again.
Talk to John Brewer in Manchester. He's a pro. Tell him Garrett sent you!
Garrett
flickr galleries
Just another idea-Check to make sure that your ground glass is installed correctly, with the ground side facing the lens.
Reid
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rjbuzzclick/
Maybe I've just been lucky, but I have not had issues like this with my Petzval lenses. WYSIWYG is how they've worked for me.
Collodion is relatively close to the visible range, from well into the visible blue to the near-visible-UV. Camera lenses made after around 1850, including Petzvals, were pretty well corrected for it, but there's no reason for projector lenses to be corrected for it. Those are meant to be used only in visible light.
"I love my Verito lens, but I always have to sharpen everything in Photoshop..."
Hi Paul, I have this lens.... how did you manage to mount it? Would like to get a flange made for it, but I am having trouble measuring the thread between the accessory aluminium tube and lens proper. It doesn't seem to be a standard metric size, I am measuring it at 72.6mm which doesn't make sense to me! Hope you can help..
Thanks in advance
Rob
I'd check difference between the location of the ground glass and the plate in the plate holder when the backs are switched again. I don't think it's an issue of chemical focus. at all. Though 5mm seems extreme for this problem. People use all sorts of modern lenses for wet plate with good results. The visible portion of the spectrum that emulsion is "seeing" should still be in focus.
Rob,
I'm not sure which lens you are speaking of, but I have a couple brass lenses that do not have a flange, and I make my own 3D printed lens boards for them and simply make the hole small enough that I can screw the lens into the board itself, and then putting a large rubber band on the back side and tighten it down with a zip tie.
Bookmarks