Some people also use amino silane as an additive to salted collodion to support adhesion. I think it is primarily use for Carbon printing. I tried it in place of albumen and did not find that it was effective. Has anyone used it?
Some people also use amino silane as an additive to salted collodion to support adhesion. I think it is primarily use for Carbon printing. I tried it in place of albumen and did not find that it was effective. Has anyone used it?
Yes, I know that frame, really nice glass MCS Format Frame 8x10
I just measured one 5X7 it is 1.5 mm, using a too big Digi caliber. Probably 1.6 mm
Ok, I read about cleaning the glass, but nobody ever mentioned that is roughs the surface. Makes total sense!
So does the other cleaning advice
I am NOT buying a Dishwasher!
Too late on the clamp, it will be useful for larger sizes
I spent decades working very fragile shims, by hand, my fingers are clubs but do know how to be very gentle.
Glass is far stronger if it has no flaw
I cut one down to 1/2 plate last night
I used to sell tools, so I like buying them too.
Tin Can
Moved to a new home.
Have at it, and enjoy!
My plan is to start trying glass negatives very soon. I will start with 4x5 since that's easiest to work with, and I have a ton of 4x5 dry plates I screwed up. I might try putting those in the dishwasher to clean them. Will have to wait until my wife isn't home.
Kent in SD
In contento ed allegria
Notte e di vogliam passar!
When I bought my B&S kit three years ago, I followed the instructions for using Amino silane to get better adhesion on glass, and all it did was make a mess of plates and ruin a batch of collodion. I found that a careful cleaning of glass was all that was needed to get good adhesion. I recommend pursuing good cleaning techniques and don't bother with Amino silane.
Funny, a friend who is very well-versed in WP told me the same thing today wrt the B&S kit.
She also added that the 7% nitric acid, for maintaining the silver bath, is unnecessary.
Anyone have similar views on the nitric acid?
I added the recommended drops of nitric acid to my first bath, about 500ml in a Lund 5x7 tank. All looked very good. In February I bought a Lund 8x10 tank that holds 1.5L. I dumped the 500ml in and mixed up 1L new silver solution and dumped it all together. The tins didn't seem as crisp and the contrast seemed lower. I couldn't figure out what was going on all of a sudden. Then I remembered I had not added any additional nitric acid. I checked pH and it was around 6. I added about a dozen drops of acid until the pH was about 4.5. There is a subtle but noticeable difference in the tins now--more crisp. Many "instructors" tell you to add the acid but don't over do it. Frem what I remember John Coffer and Mark Osterman recommend the acid drops, but apparently Quinn does not.
Kent in SD
In contento ed allegria
Notte e di vogliam passar!
PH is likely very important, water may have a PH variable
But I really don't know yet
Found this video, Ari, 'liked' it 5 years ago
Mixing Silver Nitrate for Wetplate Collodion Photography
https://youtu.be/UXV_OIDkNY4
Tin Can
Just noticed on FB Quinn has a live event at 1000 MTS time, perhaps we all should switch to Zulu time as it's less confusing world wide
"Join me tomorrow, May 30, at 1000 hrs MST for the Studio Q Show LIVE!
Come talk about the wet plate collodion process! We'll talk about technical problems, philosophical problems, and even ontological problems (if you want)."
This means my lawn mowing is delayed, first dry day in 9 days
Tin Can
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