Color Printing with Kodak Viewing filters

[Csholl]

Hi,

I tried printing color negatives using a Durst colorneg for my M601 enlarger with color head. To say the least, I expected it to be somewhat better after calibrating it. I used a color pattern card (negative) and then calibrated the colorneg once I had manually dialed in all the correct amounts so it matched the card. I then tried using a different negative with not so good results. Then, I switched back to my calibrating negative and turned the dials but there were different amounts for each filter than before. I thought maybe it would get me a decent base rating at least, but not so good (don't know if I can improve on this). Moving forward, I would like to know about Kodak color viewing filters which had been recommended to me. I'm not sure, but I'm guessing you can use these and see the negative as it should under the enlarger light? Otherwise, I don't know how much you can tell from looking at it under the enlarger. I know professionals and experience darkroom people can evaluate it quite accurately depending on what there enlarger, but using filter might be good for me in the beginning. Not sure. Any advice?

[djdister]

Hi,

I tried printing color negatives using a Durst colorneg for my M601 enlarger with color head. To say the least, I expected it to be somewhat better after calibrating it. I used a color pattern card (negative) and then calibrated the colorneg once I had manually dialed in all the correct amounts so it matched the card. I then tried using a different negative with not so good results. Then, I switched back to my calibrating negative and turned the dials but there were different amounts for each filter than before. I thought maybe it would get me a decent base rating at least, but not so good (don't know if I can improve on this). Moving forward, I would like to know about Kodak color viewing filters which had been recommended to me. I'm not sure, but I'm guessing you can use these and see the negative as it should under the enlarger light? Otherwise, I don't know how much you can tell from looking at it under the enlarger. I know professionals and experience darkroom people can evaluate it quite accurately depending on what there enlarger, but using filter might be good for me in the beginning. Not sure. Any advice?

No, you do not use them to view "under the enlarger light." The Kodak Color Print Viewing Filter Kit (as shown below), as its name describes, is for viewing a processed color print to determine the effect of changing the color filtration in your next print.

[Drew Wiley]

Those viewing filter sets can be useful for giving you a valid clue which way to go next with your colorhead setting after making an initial test print. But don't expect the cc values on those to equate to the same cc increments on your own colorhead, or to the paper curve response itself. They're just an approximation.

[Csholl]

Those viewing filter sets can be useful for giving you a valid clue which way to go next with your colorhead setting after making an initial test print. But don't expect the cc values on those to equate to the same cc increments on your own colorhead, or to the paper curve response itself. They're just an approximation.

Ok, I'm guessing the colorneg is nothing but junk. Do you know of any data sheets online for the paper I'm using: new Fuji glossy 8x10. I tried looking it up but found nothing.

[Drew Wiley]

I presume you're referring to cut-sheet CAii glossy. You just go to FujifilmUSA.com and find the Fuji Crystal Archive paper page, and then link to the spec sheet. But that's not going to tell you much of anything related to starting colorhead settings. You need to determine that yourself trial and error with a master negative of a standardized target. But for many colorheads, try equal amounts of yellow and magenta, such as Y30 / M30 / C00; for others stronger, Y50 / M50 / C00. Then take it from there. Spend an afternoon with test strips if you need, until one almost perfectly matches your color target master negative, including its neutral gray scale.

But even once you're figured out your typical starting balance, you'll still need to tweak that for sake of individual images. It gets easy after awhile. But anything will be a headache unless your chemistry is mixed fresh, and you temperature control is consistent. Color balance will shift is your temps are significantly off.