If using B&W negative film, I'd take one reading from a shady spot and one from a sunny spot, and perhaps go one stop shorter than the shade spot but so quick as to be shorter than the sunny reading. let the highlights fall where they may. B&W film is pretty forgiving so long as shadow exposure is adequate. Sorta the opposite from digital where you can boost shadows to extreme but can't do much about highlights.
Perhaps I should elaborate
The barn has a map of Wisconsin on it, under the eaves to the right is Michigan about Grand Rapids
Tin Can
What JP said.
It probably would be just as good taking a general coverage reflected reading.
But help us help you... which MF film?
Thanks
I should have stated but yes it will be black and white film, maybe Acros, HP5 or FP4 as these are the only ones I use. The camera Would be a Mamiya C220.
I am quite comfortable using the 4x5 camera and spot metering but not really used the MF setup much which is why I wanted to get a bit more of an understanding as to how to use the incident meter properly rather than just casually.
The meter I have is a Sekonic L-758
Ian, I would do what JP suggests, and then bracket in half stops as well. If you are working with 120 roll film, you can afford to bracket liberally - at least that's what I would do.
With. 758, hold up the incident done in “representative light” and note the recommendation.
Then, spot the highlight, memorized, spot the shadow, memorize, and AVG.
Compute the difference. It will likely be very minor.
Metering really doesn’t care what size film is being used. Shoot and be happy. Bracket if you want insurance. Bracketing is much more affordable if not shooting LF. No matter what you do... be happy!
I personally would just use your spot meter as you do for 4x5. Why complicate things? I use an incident meter when I can walk right up to the subject and measure the light hitting it--and usually for people and smaller subjects, not buildings.
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