I also found I could make small contrast changes with 130 by varying the amount of time agitating.
I also found I could make small contrast changes with 130 by varying the amount of time agitating.
Ansco 130, preferred over Dektol for a host of reasons. Used 1:2, no less than 3 minuets developing. While Ansco 130 is mostly done by 2 minuets of developing that last minute helps deepen blacks, brings out a richness in the tonality that makes the finished print a bit more special.
~Adjust print exposure and negative density as needed.
~Adjust as needed for print dry down as what looks great in the wash tray can dry down to dead, dull and lifeless.
Bernice
hi OP
yes glycin likes warmer temperatures, so 70-72 and you are good. you might also think about using it as a FILM developer ( sorry drew )
if you like what it does with your paper you might like what it does with your film. 1:6 6 mins is a good starting point ...
usually with developers that people used for both sheet film and paper it was 1: dilution for dilution minutes so you can do it 1:10 for 10 mins or whatever as your starting point if you want.
i've used ansco 130 for more than 20 years to develop film, it does a great job..
have fun
john
Even 1:3 works fine and only requires 3:30 minutes time and not as cold/blue as 1:1. Stock seems to last over a year, diluted about 1 month and it turns dark, but still works. Also as it ages it gets softer/warmer. Bergger NB prints colder than Ilford MGFB Classic. Warmtone papers look good too and still tone well. This one developer is a great tool in the toolbox. I keep 130 and LPD which I mainly use for warmtone papers now .
For Film, I with Jnantz, 130 1:10 10mins at 70* will give a contrasty negative for HP5, so you can dilute more or decrease time.
The magic you are looking for is in the work you are avoiding.
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