Looks good
Is it going to stay in one piece?
If tipped over for transit and tote, the weights become a danger to people and the device
It can be done if you make them do this
First move the camera platform to be inline with the posts
Then move the platform to the top, putting the weights at bottom
And keep them there by never letting the top to get lower than the bottom
NYC should have elevators, lift trucks, loading docks and strong men
or take the weights out the bottom
Tin Can
The plan is they they will deliver it to me via a truck with a lift, so the stand can remain upright.
Then it will be rolled directly into my garage while I repair clean and lube it.
The trick will be getting it into my basement afterwards. I have a wide staircase going down to the basement studio, but there is a turn and also the height of the doorway will require the unit be tilted to get it inside.
I might need to remove the base first, then reassemble once its downstairs.
One step at a time, literally and figuratively.
My experience with Saltzman stands and their counterweights is similar. I found it best to lock the platform at it's lowest, keeping the weights all the way on top which will prevent them from slipping. Of course it'll make the unit incredibly top heavy, so one must plan for that.
All we want is success and pictures when ready
You can remove the legs from the base, I have done that myself with two 2x4s as jack, one as fulcrum point. stand on the other, one comes off and it still stands up, then carefully balance it upright and take off the other. It will still stand up, but I got another person to help lay it down
think about those weights
The top pulley caps are aluminum as are the platform slides, with tiny bolts screwed into aluminum...
Saltzman are way heavier duty
Tin Can
Putting the platform at the bottom for stability sounds good, until you realize that the weights are supposed to counterbalance both the platform and a camera weighing maybe 50+ pounds. So Tin Can is right about the best way to move the complete stand.
Mine was delivered leaning over on the columns and front base casters, partly to make it easier to weatherproof for the trip. Knowing what I know now, I would recommend removing the weights and transporting the camers with the platform at the bottom. The cables are easy to deal with, and you will have a chance to see how robust the weight attachment points are. Mine were grossly inadequate, but there was no evidence of anthing better having preceded them.
If you will have to go through normal-height doorways, acquire a dolly and a piece of plywood wider than the base; tip the base back o get the dolly under two casters, then tip forward and use the tops of he columns like wheelbarrow handles. Sounds weird, but it works well.
Thanks Harold and Tin Can. I hear you loud and clear.
What is involved with removing the weights? Pulling them up through the top and disengaging from the cable?
I have three Saltzman stands. Two I renovated and required parts made by a metal fabricator. One of them was a huge headache because the weights were jammed inside the post due to a transportation nightmare which dented the column. I ended up cutting open the column lengthwise (!) with a grinder in order to pry it apart to remove the weights. A new 4" x 8' column was sourced, but it ended up having a welding seam along the inside length which prevented smooth movement of the original weights. I then had to have a groove cut in the side of the lead weights facilitate clearance of the seam. The original column had no seam.
The weights are easy to remove by using jack stands near the top when legs are removed and the base is flat on ground, use a stick to push the weights up from bottom a couple inches
Then disconnect the cables from the slides, remove the top caps and simply push them down from above with a stick and pull them out the bottom
One person can do this
Tin Can
The stand I have had been monkeyed with the table and the cranks were reversed, thus the table was on upside down. I confirmed this as Deardorff used L and R part numbers on the parts. It should be the two longer base rails with the casters, the long ends point toward the photographer, the elevation crank points up on the right side, mine came pointing down on the left. My table was on upside down and sides flipped around. Look at the casting the LH and RH markings are there
I received delivery of the stand last month and it looks pretty good except for the broken chain tensioner bolt that connects to a bracket on the base. I know there are a bunch of simple ways to make it work, but I would love to use the same type of part if I can. I'd like to keep it as close to the original design as possible. As you can see in the below picture, the threaded bolt broke at some point. Should be roughly 2" long.
(BTW, the two chains connect to the top of the poles using the same part on my stand)
I'm sure it's not likely that anyone here has a spare to sell, right?
Or, perhaps, a good resource for a replacement? McMaster has something close, but not exactly.
Thx.
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