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Thread: Btzs tubes: 8x10 issues

  1. #11

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    Re: Btzs tubes: 8x10 issues

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Kadillak View Post
    I saw the older videos from Fred and had a set of the 4x5 tubes a while back. Your comments point to my personal avoidance of concentrated developers. I opt for more dilute developers that afford me a longer developing time particularly when I have negatives with even skies. Filling the entire tube with developer over the height of the inserted sheet film lets me go the route of reduced agitation development with P Cat HD or standard development either rolling or inversion. I also deploy tray development as well as gaseous burst. Just tools in the tool chest. Go with what works for you.
    I do something similar for EMA (extreme minimal agitation) with Pyrocat-HD in homemade tubes. I tried doing this with the BTZS tubes before I made my own, but the film twisted in the tube during agitation cycles such that one side (top, short side) would be above the developer level. My homemade tubes use a plumber's stopper and I designed the length such that very little space is left between the film and the bottom of the stopper, thereby eliminating the twisting problem.

  2. #12
    おせわに なります! Andrew O'Neill's Avatar
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    Re: Btzs tubes: 8x10 issues

    I've been using BTZS tubes for both 4x5 and 8x10 for over 20 years and never had an issue with them. I'll admit though that I do not like the newer 8x10 black tubes. They are much lighter than the older grey tubes. The grey tubes sit evenly in the water, and spin with little effort. In Fred's videos it shows him shaking the tubes initially to agitate. This is just not necessary as it twists the film, and forces it, especially 8x10, up into the cap. I also had some sheets corners scratch the emulsion. Rolling in a tempered bath is all that is required. As far as having lights on, I always open the tube after development under my safelight when I stick them in the stop. Then I pull the film out from the tube and slip into the fixer. I have never had any fogging issues.

  3. #13

    Re: Btzs tubes: 8x10 issues

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill View Post
    I've been using BTZS tubes for both 4x5 and 8x10 for over 20 years and never had an issue with them. I'll admit though that I do not like the newer 8x10 black tubes. They are much lighter than the older grey tubes. The grey tubes sit evenly in the water, and spin with little effort. In Fred's videos it shows him shaking the tubes initially to agitate. This is just not necessary as it twists the film, and forces it, especially 8x10, up into the cap. I also had some sheets corners scratch the emulsion. Rolling in a tempered bath is all that is required. As far as having lights on, I always open the tube after development under my safelight when I stick them in the stop. Then I pull the film out from the tube and slip into the fixer. I have never had any fogging issues.
    If the sheet film moves during development in any tube, that is a risk on event that one cannot tolerate relative to the final product of a perfectly processed 8x10 negative. And bthe foo question certain sheet films have differing thickness for their negative and thinner emulsions move in 8x10 3" tubes. It is what it is. T Max 400 is a thicker negative sheet film that is easier sheet film to process in tubes (less prone to move during processing) than FP4+. M recommendation is to use water proof athletic tape to affix the sheet film to the walls of the tube prior to processing. It holds amazingly well.

  4. #14

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    Re: Btzs tubes: 8x10 issues

    Are you sure you are not getting too close to the hair light as you get farther from the model.
    Bill
    "There are a great many things I am in doubt about at the moment, and I should consider myself favoured if you would kindly enlighten me. Signed, Doubtful, off to Canada." (BJP 1914).

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