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Thread: 14x20 camera build

  1. #61
    LF/ULF Carbon Printer Jim Fitzgerald's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Vancouver Washington
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    3,935

    Re: 14x20 camera build

    Michael, congratulations! Having build several cameras for myself of differing designs I know the feeling when you can finally say it is done and time to shoot. Remind me please of the total extension of this beauty. Great job.

  2. #62
    Tin Can's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    22,563

    Re: 14x20 camera build

    Congratulations
    Tin Can

  3. #63

    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Wondervu, Colorado
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    1,313

    Re: 14x20 camera build

    Thanks Jim and Randy.

    Total extension is 45 inches, weight is 17lb 6oz. Outside dimensions, 22 1/2 x 22 1/2 x 5".

    Rear forward and backward tilt. Front forward and backward tilt, rise/fall, L/R shift, and L/R tilt.

    Three 3/8-16 tripod sockets. Extension rail supports a monopod or second tripod.

    Shown with 14x17 reducing back but will take 16x20, 12x20, 8x20 and smaller reversible backs.

    Oh, I also included two removable inserts for the 14x17 back, one to make two 7x17 images on a single sheet of 14x17 film and one to make two 8 1/2x14 images.
    Last edited by Michael Roberts; 27-Apr-2024 at 12:25.

  4. #64

    Join Date
    May 2006
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    Wondervu, Colorado
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    1,313

    Re: 14x20 camera build

    Some reflections on camera design after this build, in no particular order:

    If I were building this camera again, I would make the sides of the base higher than the top of the extension rail plus the added brass strip. For this build, I put 1/8" runners under the rail to raise it up to clear the tops of the tripod brackets, and in so doing I inadvertently left the rail a tad higher than the sides of the base. This is only a problem when the camera is closed, but it means the rear frame rests on top of the brass strip on the right side of the rail instead of being distributed and supported by the sides of the camera base. This bothers me. If I were keeping the camera for myself, I would probably add 1/8" mahogany strips all along the sides of the camera base to correct this.

    I hate the bellows with a passion. The excessive weight totally messes up my plan for this to be a light weight ULF camera. It should weigh 2lb less than it does. There is no excuse for this; just poor communication with Keith at Custom Bellows. I naively expect professionals to communicate better about options and requirements when accepting new orders since they know their product and business. This was a learning experience for me. I know a lot of people rave about Custom Bellows being the best bellows maker out there, but I have bought two bellows from them now and been disappointed both times. The first was with a Century Universal 8x10 I restored. That bellows had a twist in it and consistently vignetted photographs unless I fully extended the bellows before every shot. This bellows is so heavy it has to be supported with a rolled towel underneath to prevent the weight of the bellows from dragging the lens board frame out of position. What a PITA.

    This is the third camera I have built with this design--first, a 7x11, then a 5x8, and this 16x20. The first two are horizontal designs, this one has a square back to allow for reversing the spring back. Otherwise, the designs and materials are mostly the same (except for the bellows suppliers--three different suppliers; and the camera base on this camera). I'm very, very happy with the two smaller cameras, this one, not so much. Aside from the bellows, I had to use 3/8 plywood for the big 22x22" base for this camera--it's much heavier than the 1/4" mahogany planks I tried using in the first place but I could not get my 1/4" mahogany planks to stay straight and not cup and warp after I glued them up. That was frustrating to say the least. On the up side, I discovered a wonderful new (to me) adhesive mahogany edge trim I used to cover the outside of the plywood. I'm now using this material in place of 1/32" mahogany veneer I have used in the past to cover basswood GG frames and spring backs. And then there is the sheer bulk of this 20x20. It's a beast of a camera. Mostly, that is due to the inherent nature of ULF. I also have a vintage 11x14 and a 12x20 I modified from a Kodak 2D 8x10. The 11x14 weighs 10lbs and is roughly 16" o/s dimensions; the 12x20 weighs 12lbs and is a similar 22" o/s horizontally, but only 14" vertically. After handling this 20x20, my conclusion is 12x20 is my limit. [I have no idea how Monty and others handle 20x24 on a regular basis--hats off to anyone who can do this!!]

    All in all, this is a beautiful camera. I love the mahogany; it's a beautiful wood. The camera opens and closes well, the extension rail moves easily and locks down well. The rear brackets lock the rear frame into place as they should, and the lens board frame rises/falls, and tilts as it should. The front standard locks down tight, and shifts and tilts L/R as designed. The leather handle and brackets support the weight of the camera well. Except for the bellows exerting its excessive weight on the movements, all is good. It's just too damn big and heavy (for my taste anyway). But this was a build for someone else and had to be designed and fabricated according to his requirements, so that's what counts. I just thought I would add these thoughts to this thread for anyone looking to build something similar.

    For myself, I plan to continue using the 11x14 and 12x20/8x20 occasionally, and my 7x11/8x10 more often. In the past few months, I have come to greatly appreciate the new 5x8 (especially in contrast to this 20x20 beast of a camera) and can see the possibility of it becoming my camera of choice and pulling out the bigger cameras more for variety and special occasions.

    Cheers,
    Michael

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