Here is one from North Grand Canyon Cape Royal. Metered Z5 on darkest shadows which were lower left, red 25A filter. Developed in Tmax Dev for 7:30 sec at 68F. Iphone shot on light table. Ok rip away.
This metered ev8-9 -3 for red 25A or 5-6 ev for 15 sec or 30 sec. I need to look at the other one when dry to see which is which, but both appear similar. One was taken after it got darker out by about 1 stop.
I will apologize to anyone who thought I was just ignoring their help. I was not. And I should not have gotten so short.
End results were for failed due to messing up at camera. Accidental over exposure as I forgot to set f stop, 1 was just plain bad, 2 I caused light leaks by putting dark slide between holder and camera body when putting slide back in. 1 fail developing got air bubbles on film and 1 partial fail with a small streak possibly, salvageable as is the one with pin holes, bUt only for scanning and printing electronically.
All others came out good. Most negatives were dense but no blown highlights. So now I will do a test or two as suggested and see how that compares to the way I have been metering.
I recommend the Zone VI workshop method using 1/3 stop changes. Like many here, I've been doing this for a long time, and from my own history, as well as seeing many people starting out, it's still my view that this is the quickest way to maximize the chances of getting what you want when you photograph. Sure, you can always go back to the scene, but, again in my experience, that often doesn't work out. Occasionally I've been lucky in that way, but usually not. The conditions aren't as nice, or I simply don't have time to return.
Like Bryan, and I'm sure like many, I now rarely do such a test. If I have a new film, I make my best guess of exposure and development, take and process a test negative, and look at the results on a light table. From this, I can estimate what proper exposure and development will be. This is easier in that I only use one developer, and I know the development times of a bunch of films in it in my system. I do this if I'm trying out a new film, which I've had to do as my old preference either became unavailable or unaffordable. I then shoot a bunch of sheets around town to see if I like the new film. If I do, and if I'm using the film in the field as opposed to the studio, then I do a reciprocity test. It would be a nightmare to go on a rare-for-me photo trip only to come back with useless negatives because I didn't spend a bit of time. These days film is expensive, but time and opportunity are more precious by far.
Last edited by Peter De Smidt; 19-Aug-2019 at 08:26.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
When doing the test, does f stop matter? If I were to point the camera at a white background and meter say at noon outside, I would then figure out what exposure gives ZX then work backwards to zone 0 in 1/3 stops?. I like the idea of using the dark slide to make the exposures. I could do this for several sheets, then test in developer with times and temps to determine the "correct" times, etc?. I have not read the book yet.
I am looking on line to see about ordering the workshop. Can get used copies for a couple of bucks. Anyone have it?
Your library probably has it, (if you can't find it I'll send you my copy) but this is the outline:
Load up some holders. My Jobo drum uses 6 negatives, and so that's what I have on hand. Place a flat black card in shade. It has to be big enough to easily see/measure later, but it doesn't have to take up the whole frame. Focus your camera on infinity, as that will not require any bellows correction. Meter the black card. Set your meter to 1/2 the box speed and read the card. Make sure it's evenly lit. If you set your camera to what the meter reads, you're placing the card on Zone V, a middle gray tone, but we want to find out Zone I, just enough density above film base plus fog to shot a bit of detail. So take the meter reading and figure out what would give 4 stops less exposure. Pick f-stop and shutter speeds to avoid reciprocity, and to allow you to open up the lens in following shots. Take the photo. This is to see if half box speed gives enough shadow density. Now close down 1/3 stop. Take photo. Repeat. For Tmax 100, this would being trying to find a good Zone I density at Exposure Index 50, 65, 80, which is likely the right range.
Now place a flat white card in sun. Make sure it's evenly lit. Focus on infinity. Measure card, using 1/2 box speed on meter. Place the card on Zone VIII, i.e. take the meter reading and add 3 stops. Take a picture. Do the same thing as before, i.e. close down 1/3 stop. Take picture. Repeat.
Make your best guess at development, and develop the film. Dry. What you do next will depend on whether your have a densitometer and are printing optically or scanning. If you have a densitometer, measure the black card area of the Zone 1 negatives, and find the one that gives at least 0.1 above film base plus fog. That is your EI. Find the corresponding Zone VIII negative. Take a reading. The goal is to have about 1.3 above film base plus fog. If none of your negatives give enough Zone I density, then you have to repeat using an even lower EI range. If they all give much more, then you can extrapolate or run another test. If you have a good Zone I sheet, and that EI gives a good Zone VIII density, then you have your Normal EI and Development time. If the Zone VIII density is too low. Expose another sheet at your determined EI and develop for 15% (or so) more. It depends on how far off you were. If the Zone VIII density is too high, do the same thing but develop less.
If you don't have a densitometer and your're scanning, place a Zone I/VIII pair on your scanner. It doesn't have to be at super high resolution. Set the black point on the film base. Set the white point on the brightest area in the scene. Scan. Do this for each. Compare scans. When you get the shadow detail you want from the straight scan, then you have your EI. When you get the highlights looking like you'd want, then you have your development time.
There's a similar way to do this when using an enlarger, but I don't think you're doing this, and I have to go to class. I hope that helps.
If setting up cards...is anathema, go outside and find a scene with a 5-stop range. Place the shadow with detail on Zone III. Expose and develop. Do the scanner test. Do you have enough shadow detail? If not, cut the EI in half on the meter and try again. If the highlights are too high or low, adjust appropriately.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
This helps out a lot. I am currently scanning, but will eventually be printing black and whites. I will pretty much just keep scanning the color stuff. I am gonna do this test this week. Thanks for the info. Have fun in class.
Question, why use half box speed? For the Tmax100 that would then be 50 (of course) I see this all the time, and curious why not use the rated box speed of 100?
Originally Posted by Peter De Smidt
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