Originally Posted by
Pere Casals
Of course, a good spot meter is a perfect choice, but I've not one.
Using a DSLR/SLR in the back of a view camera is not for everyday, IMHO, but it allows to calibrate and check many things. In fact a (near for free) Nikon F65 in the back is a perfect Probe meter accounting all, lens transmission, aperture calibration, fall-off, bellows extension... It has a viewfinder so it's very convenient to navigate in the framing with the shift-rise.
Also I can use the DSLR/SLR (+zoom) as if it was a Director's Scope that will tell if framing fits in the negative (Hor and Vert eq focals in the zoom), so when I haul the cambo 8x10 and my insanely heavy Bilora is just to shot, this way I avoid dragging around all those irons to find the good shot.
Also, as DOF rules are the same, in the zoom I may place the same focal and aperture, and I can check what will happen in the 8x10 shot. So I focus to the intended distance, and with focus blocked I can explore and (DSLR) shot the rest of the field, by zomming in the rear screen of the DSLR I see how the rest will be compared to the object in the focus plane (if no tilt).
I'm not saying that this has to be the regular procedure, at all, just it's useful for a learner like me.
At all, we can make top notch art with an smartphone in auto mode.
An artist may take advantage from softness, from sharpness or from both at the same time. But there is nothing wrong in mastering DOF management, if one wants that.
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