jj, not sure if our posts crossed paths... but I described in detail above why these products, which I own them all, are all toublesome for long term, permament, consistent, lens syncing....
Thanks
jj, not sure if our posts crossed paths... but I described in detail above why these products, which I own them all, are all toublesome for long term, permament, consistent, lens syncing....
Thanks
Okay. Thanks, Bill. I lost track of the thread.
For great precision I would think that to make them both trip so that top speeds would synch would require that one go beyond the cable activation mechanism. Tiny electric solenoids with zero travel... dunno. Maybe RC airplane gizmos would suffice.
Bill,
The factory that makes our Gepe releases can make custom ones for industrial and scientific applications. There would be a couple of problems. The first being that 1 up production is not very cost effective. The second is are the springs in a Copal shutter strong enough for one shutter to fire the other at all shutter speeds.
In theory what you are trying to do is take a Gepe Wide Angle Extension type release and somehow attach it to both shutters to fire them at about the same time.
The easy way to do this would be with a pair of Rollei Linear Motor Shutters as these are fired electronically.
I should have mentioned....
Electronic shutters from Rollei, Schneider and the such are too wide.... I can not maintain the center lens spacing....
Bob, do you think you can have the cables made as i described above? Just simple plungers on both ends? Or do you know a source for such?
We would have to give the factory specs and drawings.
Bill,
Three thoughts-
1) a smaller electronic shutter?
2) A pneumatic (air) release, such as those giant expensive ones that have been discussed here before
3) How about somehow fitting a set of servos to either the shutter trip levers or to the cable release sockets? It would be a custom construction of simple servos, which would be tripped by a controlled power source. Perhaps servos of the type used in model planes/cars/etc.?
Is it possible to modify the camera itself to make this whole job easier?
For starters, are your shutters set up like this? Maybe from here we can get a better idea of what you have and need.
1) a smaller electronic shutter?
I have searched the planet, can not find any...and the ones I do find, which are too wide anyway, are also way to slow, max. speeds 1/60th.... Horseman, Rollei, Schneider, etc. but if anyone know of any that might work, I am all ears....
2) A pneumatic (air) release, such as those giant expensive ones that have been discussed here before
Air has great potential, but the solenoid has too much kick, thereby using two of them produces way to much vibration, as I am going after very sharp images....
3) How about somehow fitting a set of servos to either the shutter trip levers or to the cable release sockets? It would be a custom construction of simple servos, which would be tripped by a controlled power source. Perhaps servos of the type used in model planes/cars/etc.?
I explored this also....and Fuji makes servos that fire Copal shutters on their 6x17, but they are big, cumbersome, and once again, too much vibration, specially two of them...
> Is it possible to modify the camera itself to make this whole job easier?
I haven't even built the camera yet, so I can modify anything.... but we still have two lenses about 73mm apart which limits the positioning of the lenses as they have many moving levers outside their circumfrence.
jj, this arrangement will not work, as the levers stick out too far..... here is the best set up I can think of....
The right lens, looking at the front element, will have its PC socket at 1 o'clock. The same with the left lens, 1 o'clock. This provides the proper gap between the lenses whereas none of the external leves will bang the other lens...so as you can see the two shutter hammers are far from each other, hence why cables are well suited as they can be wrapped around to accomodate the awkward hammer positions.
Actually, the PC socket is closer to the 12 o'clock position.......
Just a sketch. What is not shown is the little solenoid and shaft behind and inbetween the lenses that turns the cam. It would have a manual mode for composing.
If you haven't built it yet, then perhaps you could arrange the lenses thus. This is not a new idea. These cams, rods and swivels are common stuff, and since last night when Ernest helped out on my odd shutter, I know more about solenoids than I like. (They can be driven with small batteries.)
Very smooth, too.
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