Yes, no cable. For VC paper Green and Yellow is the same because yellow is green plus irrelevant red. Also blue is the same than purple. You always throw the red to see better while burning/dodging.
So in split grade you use only Yellow and Purple, you make a Yellow exposure followed by a Purple exposure, balancing both times you adjust grade. You may dodge/burn more or less a print area when you make the yellow or the green exposure, so you may adjust local contrast in any area of the print.
I guess it's 3200K , the tungsten one. Enlargers equiped with cold cathode illuminators had a shift in the contrast compared tungsten ones, so another filter grade had to be used for the same result.
See "EXPOSING LIGHT SOURCES" section in page 3.
https://www.ilfordphoto.com/wp/wp-co...Multigrade.pdf
https://web.archive.org/web/20190318...Multigrade.pdf
For Split grade you usually make a control strip for the shadows with Purple light and another one for the highlights with yellow light. Then you make the print by combining both exposure times with both colors. The Purple exposure won't modify highlights and the Yellows exposure won't modify shadows. This is the starting point.
So you don't really need to measure anything, you just make two control strips that combined would adjust grade an exposure.
https://www.ilfordphoto.com/split-grade-printing/
http://www.darkroomdave.com/tutorial...rade-printing/
https://web.archive.org/web/20180317...rade-printing/
Me, I meter light with a cheap ($20) lux meter. I calibrate paper and I try to realize what density I'll obtain in any area of the print. I'm still learning and refining my methods.
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