Is this reticulation or grain? - Tri-X 320 4x5 development

[Doremus Scudder]

Your responses made me realize how this tap water issue I created started. I used to do all color C-41 and E6 at home. There are processes to develop these at 102-105F I was using and so that was when I got into the habit of using warm water to pre warm everything. I was keeping all the chemicals at 102 or so in a bath at the time.

When I went to black and white I think that is what made me never question wash temp as an issue as many emulsions are fine with this.

I obviously own what these results are regardless and am glad I am making this mistake on some frames I was using for testing and not when it is critical.

I really appreciate everyone’s experience.

It's not the temperature per se, but the rapid change in temperature that causes reticulation. Black-and-white film can be processed within a fairly wide range of temperatures, from about 65°F-76°F or even higher with special considerations, but, if you want to avoid reticulation in the future, keep your processing temperature for one batch within 2°F of each other (or closer, if you're OCD like me).

Just so you know: black-and-white emulsions are not designed to be processed at the same temperature as color emulsions; the hardening is different.

Get yourself a cheap thermometer well that attaches to your faucet and adjust the hot-cold controls till you get running water at the temp you need. Alternately, you can just add hot and cold water to the sink basin or a large bucket or tub and mix till you get your processing temperature. Use this for presoak and wash water. I did things this way for 25 years and have well-processed, unreticulated negatives

I've never seen reticulation first-hand. Maybe I'll try your method on a sheet or two just to say I've done it myself.

Best,

Doremus

[Steven Ruttenberg]

I always presoak at same temperature as development. During final rinse I will do the same temp or cooler.

[Jim Noel]

Reticulation caused by rapid change in temperature. The very hot pre-wash is a vry likely culprit. Where did you come across info suggesting this high temp range?

[Jim Noel]

spend a few buckson a thermometer.

[Sal Santamaura]

...I purposely keep the water heater temp down so nobody can get burned by hot water in the home...

Your 320TXP reticulation is utterly trivial compared to what could happen as a result of that practice.

Legionella pneumophilia bacteria thrive at such a low temperature. When running water for a shower or the like, mists/vapors containing the bacteria can cause Legionnaire's disease when inhaled by those with compromised immune systems, including smokers, the elderly and anyone currently suffering from an otherwise non-life-threatening lung infection. The only way to permanently ensure Legionella bacteria are not present in a domestic hot water system is to set the water heater temperature at 140 degrees F or higher. Scald protection is then provided by means of automatic thermostatic mixing valves at each point of use, e.g. faucets, tubs, showers.

Many people 'skate' for years with a water heater setting of 120 degrees F. Then, when something changes in their household to render one or more members susceptible, another case of Legionnaire's surfaces. This isn't analogous to the age-old argument about minimum quantity of stock developer needed for each 80 square inches of film. I've described that controversy as "confidence or crap shoot." The only downside to rolling snake eyes in that situation is thin negatives. With water heater temperature, a loss is frequently manifest as death. Don't take a chance.

[pepeguitarra]

Excellent point Sal. Here is additional information on it.

[devinnamaky]

Just to give everyone the follow up. I developed subsequent frames from the same box of film. I used water at room temp for washing instead of the warm tap. Everything else I kept the same. The frames came out perfect. A night and day difference. Thank you for helping me with this.