Brand Spanking New Here... what are practical differences among Chamonix 4x5 models?

[Bernice Loui]

Suggest considering a Sinar Norma and other Sinar cameras if the limitations of a field camera becomes significant.


Bernice

[Laminarman]

Thank you everyone. I do plan on buying directly from Hugo. Have been Eburned before, but have had some good transactions too. But I'd rather go direct anyways. My wife has never denied me anything, she's a gem. Then again, my greatest fear in life is I die and she sells all my stuff for what I told her I paid for it ; )

[rohanbassett]

The asymmetrical movement of the back standard are also a specialty of the F-line, but that was not what I meant with the link to the photo. I’m not a teacher in viewcamera’s, neither is my english excellent, but what I meant is the following: there is a line on the groundglass at about 1/4 from the bottom. If your focusplane in the subject is on that line, the movements guided by the bended rail (light grey knob on the photo) will not change the focus point on that line.
The asymmetrical movements of the backstandard are more meant for arty effects in perspective if I’m not mistaken. But I’m eager to learn better if I’m wrong here.

Yes, what you're describing with the dotted line and the grey knob (and curved rail) is asymmetric rear tilt.

The idea is to place the distant focal point on the lower dotted line, and then use asymmetric tilt to focus the foreground elements, with the distant focal point remaining unchanged. Naturally, as it involves rear movements, there'll be some perspective distortion -- but I haven't used the feature much myself, so can't speak to how pronounced it is. I suspect it could be used for arty effects, but the intention is to reduce the number of steps to focus across a plane.

There's an interesting thread about asymmetric movements and the pros & cons here.

[otto.f]

Thanks!
Btw, if weight would make a difference because of this feature on the F2, it’s only 50 grams heavier than the N2.

[Bernice Loui]

Asymmetrical movements discussed previously here:
https://www.largeformatphotography.i...nts-asymmetric


IMO based on decades of using a view camera, asymmetric camera movements are most useful for studio table top images. The need to combine camera movements for outdoor "field" camera images is not common. This is really more of a nice to have feature than a feature that is often used with great advantages over field cameras without asymmetrical tilt-swing movements. Type of view camera need to fit the images to be created. Add to this no view camera is ideal for ALL image making needs, Each and every camera, film format, lens and etc is a set of trade offs. Knowing what the trade offs are that best-fits the image making needs is a good thing. Knowing what the trade offs are and core needs comes with burning a BIG pile-O-film over years to decades of using a view camera. Those new to this view camera stuff often faces a steep learning curve with challenges to move up this curve. All the while, the lure of what hardware (aka GEAR) might be coveted can often be a hinderance to expressive image making and moving up the learning curve.


Bernice

Yes, what you're describing with the dotted line and the grey knob (and curved rail) is asymmetric rear tilt.

The idea is to place the distant focal point on the lower dotted line, and then use asymmetric tilt to focus the foreground elements, with the distant focal point remaining unchanged. Naturally, as it involves rear movements, there'll be some perspective distortion -- but I haven't used the feature much myself, so can't speak to how pronounced it is. I suspect it could be used for arty effects, but the intention is to reduce the number of steps to focus across a plane.

There's an interesting thread about asymmetric movements and the pros & cons here.

[Laminarman]

Can I ask a related question that is stupid right now? I will order a few Chamonix lens holders (not cheap) but does any 4x5 lens holder work? Any advice here? I should probably start standing on my head and look into a mirror to watch TV to get ready to re-learn the view I'm going to get.

[Two23]

Can I ask a related question that is stupid right now? I will order a few Chamonix lens holders (not cheap) but does any 4x5 lens holder work? Any advice here? I should probably start standing on my head and look into a mirror to watch TV to get ready to re-learn the view I'm going to get.

The Chamonix lens boards look nice and are a little lighter as I think they are carbon fiber, but I just buy the cheap aluminum ones for $20 or so. They work fine.


Kent in SD

[Winger]

Done! Upstate NY below Syracuse near the Binghamton area. The land of rain and clouds and high taxes.

I grew up a little North of you in the Mohawk Valley (Little Falls). Too bad I'm about 5 hours away from Binghamton now - I have the F1 and love it. I chose it over the N2 mostly because I thought I might someday want the asymmetric tilts. I think somewhere on the Chamonix site there's a good explanation of the differences? The asymmetric tilts are likely more useful in architectural photography and I shoot out in the woods way more. I think I've used them once, but I also don't shoot nearly as much as I wish I did. There was a small enough difference in weight and price that I figured it was worth it to get the F1. I'm only 120 pounds and 5'6" and I can carry it with several film holders, a few lenses, and the other "stuff" that's needed (and usually a dSLR) with no major problem. I think my longest hike with it all has been around 5 miles. I do have a good backpack.

[Laminarman]

Thank you fellow Up-stater Bethe : )

[David Rheubottom]

Hi Andy, and welcome. I have a Chaminox 045-2 which replaced a very heavy and unwieldy MPP VII. It is a bit "fiddly", but the fiddlyness makes me slow down and concentrate -- which I think is a plus. The 45-F2 which has separate knobs for rise/fall and tilt would be an advantage over my 45. What might appear as an additional knob to fiddle with, would actually make setting up and adjusting easier. For what it is worth, I have a 90mm Rodenstock Grandagon, 210mm Fujinon-W, and a 300mm Nikkor-M. But my great love is a Schneider-Kreuznach Apo-Symmar which I use for about 95% of my work. If I didn't have it, I could happily get along with just the 210 Fujinon (although it is a bit heavy). All of my lenses were purchased on eBay and, by taking due care over description and seller, I've not had problems. Finally, this may sound sappy, but the damned Chaminox is just a beautiful piece of equipment and beautifully made, and pride of ownership is, for me, part of the pleasure of photographing with it. Somehow it adds to my sense of craft. As a fellow Hasselblad owner, you will probably know the feeling. Cheers, Dave