Hi Guys,
I am looking for some guidance, or links to videos, as to the best technique when using Lee 100 filters with my 10x8.
I have red and orange for b&w, Autumn and Landscape sets for colour, and ND hard grads and polariser which are good for both.
Using the red, orange and polariser individually seems pretty easy as I measure EV through the filter to establish what exposure correction I need and then make my adjustment to time or aperture.
Using the ND grads is not that problematic either. I spot meter the lightest part of a scene and compare that, usually, to the sky which then determines which grad to use (1, 2 or 3 stop) to hold back the sky.
I have also used the Autumn set to warm up a scene as the grad line is 90mm so I can use those to cover the whole lens. No problem.
My worries, however, are when I want to use, for example, one of the Autumn set, lets say Coral 6 which has 1.5stop effect, to lift the foreground and a ND Grad to hold back the sky.
Should I meter the difference between the foreground highlights and the sky, lets say that's 2 stops, add the Coral 6 (1.5stop) to the foreground, and then add the two numbers together to arrive at what ND grad is actually required for the sky; that being 2+1.5=3.5stops?
I suppose I should then ignore this number and adjust by 1.5stops for the whole scene to take into account the Coral 6. Right?
If, however, I was also want to use a polariser (let's say that is also 1.5stop), then do I adjust by a total of 1.5 (Coral)+1.5(Polz)=3 stops?
My final question is regarding the transition line on any of my 100x150mm filters which is really difficult to see on the 10x8 ground glass. I have cut out a piece of thin cardboard which replicates the position of the grad line but does anyone have any better ideas?
Using my 645 is easy as it has TTL metering but as I am starting to shoot 10x8 Provia I can't afford to make too many mistakes without breaking the bank.
thanks ...Sweep
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