Help With Cokin Filters...Or Filters In General

[appletree]

I'd look at Ebay for a used one and save some money. I think it just slides into their holder. Yes, it's two pieces of glass. One spins to get the effect you want. I used to use Cokin filters for 35mm but I had a regular polarizer. A polarizer is one filter that I won't be without even if I shoot digital.

Here are some color filter examples for b&w. http://www.photographymad.com/pages/...te-photography

ND's are great for when you need them. Graduated ND's can come in handy too. I like a slight soft focus filter sometimes for when I want to soften a portrait a little. /QUOTE]

Thanks Alan for all the info. I got a Z-Pro holder for 15 bucks!!! Just looking for filters now on eBay.
Seems like searching for 4x6 at first was hindering the results. Tried 4x5.65 and over 600 results.

[appletree]

I am sorry I am such a mess.
Can someone help me decide a few things, please?

First searching for these things on eBay is a pain (and I'm a youngin'). Search terms are so many options...ND or neutral density, 100, 100mm, 4x6, 4x4, 100x150, etc etc etc.

Anyway.....OK. Picked up a Formatt Hitech 1.2 grad Soft Edge for 20 bucks. If I grab a 0.6 grad Soft Edge...then for yellow and orange I guess I don't need grads? And go with 4x4s for those are fine. Anything that is full covering a 4x4 is just fine. And if I need to I just move half of it out of the image. Ez Pz. Am I thinking of this right?

And I need to get adapter rings. I guess 77mm and 67mm for LF at least.

Hmm...it isn't super easy finding information about the multitude of options either. For example, a Formatt Hitech Orange 1, 2, or 3? Various grades? Shades of yellow or just amount of stops? Some places say .3 / .6. / 1.2. Others say 1, 2, and 3 stops. Which 1.2 is technically 4 stops. Lee warming filter 81-1 vs 81-2 options. Lol, I am making this too complicated.

[Alan Gales]

Searching for filters on eBay can be a pain because there are so many of them listed. If I type in something like 77mm polarizers I'll get a ton to look through. For example, I can type in B+W 77mm polarizer or Heliopan 77mm polarizer. It helps to be more specific. Of course some of what I may be looking for does not show up due to the Seller's description or some other crazy reason. The ones that don't show up can be the bargains because they don't get the bids! It took a while to build my 77mm filter collection off eBay but that's because I wanted quality but I wanted it cheap. I chose 77mm because that's what my RZ67 lenses took before I got into large format. Step up rings are great!

With square graduated neutral density filters you just slide the filter up an down in the holder until you get the graduation in the place you want it. I use colored filters for b&w. I don't have any experience with any graduated colored filters except for a Cokin graduated blue filter when I started out in 35mm photography. It was supposed to deepen the blue of the sky for color film while also being a graduated neutral density filter. It's effect didn't look natural to me so I got rid of it.

[Alan Gales]

Read this!

https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tu...ng-filters.htm

[xkaes]

I chose 77mm because that's what my RZ67 lenses took before I got into large format.

I walked the same path, but with an RB67. I loved the entire system, but when I discovered that I could get negatives 4 times the size, in a system that weighed less, I made the switch. Yeah, I had to change from a great Beseler 23C to a 45MXII, etc. but it was worth it. Nowadays, a good RB67 PRO body sells for only $49. I'm tempted, but not enough. The GREAT lenses cost a lot less now, but they are as heavy today as they were 40 years ago.

Yet, I still haven't given up on the RB system completely. I still use my Mamiya 37mm f4.5 C Fisheye on my Toko 4x5!

www.subclub.org/fujinon/gonefishin.pdf

But back to the question for Austin. IF you use graduated colored filters -- for sunsets, etc., you will PROBABLY want to use a similar ND GRADUATED filter on the "other side" -- of the same density -- so that the overall density of the image is the same. It all depends on the scene and your preferences, but if you simply use a graduated color filter, the unfiltered part of the scene might be too light.

[appletree]

I walked the same path, but with an RB67. I loved the entire system, but when I discovered that I could get negatives 4 times the size, in a system that weighed less, I made the switch. Yeah, I had to change from a great Beseler 23C to a 45MXII, etc. but it was worth it. Nowadays, a good RB67 PRO body sells for only $49. I'm tempted, but not enough. The GREAT lenses cost a lot less now, but they are as heavy today as they were 40 years ago.

Yet, I still haven't given up on the RB system completely. I still use my Mamiya 37mm f4.5 C Fisheye on my Toko 4x5!

www.subclub.org/fujinon/gonefishin.pdf

But back to the question for Austin. IF you use graduated colored filters -- for sunsets, etc., you will PROBABLY want to use a similar ND GRADUATED filter on the "other side" -- of the same density -- so that the overall density of the image is the same. It all depends on the scene and your preferences, but if you simply use a graduated color filter, the unfiltered part of the scene might be too light.

Yes that makes sense. So the overall density is the same. One half is yellow with clear behind it. The other half would be clear with grey behind it or whatnot.

I have a silly question, but I guess it matters less of the light at the focal plane of the camera and negative, but the light at the subject. Correct? Thus a mountain scene that has the sun behind it thus the sky is bright but the side of the mountain is all shadows would make good use of filters in general? Although...if I have a full yellow or orange or whatever filter, I can just position it as needed. Either 100% over the lens or leave a portion of the lens exposed etc.

I think I am unsure why I am even asking that. Of course, it is why I meter at the subject with the meter facing the camera, when possible.

[appletree]

So...more research. Many say a polarizer is critical. In that case, where would I find one that fits the 100mm Z-Pro? I only see Lee makes one for around 300 large ones.
Unless I am better off (more economical) getting this in a round filter for the 77mm lens and a step down ring for the 67mm.

And someone personally recommended a warming filter for my trip to NZ. If I was to only buy one (each about 80 bucks) any opinions on a Schneider 81-1 vs 81-2?

Thanks.

[appletree]

Rumor has it this might fit....?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Haida-Filte...oAAOSwXetZXWHU
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thre...-post-50599440

[Alan Gales]

I had to look up 81-1 and 81-2 to be sure. They are newer designations born from the old 81-A and 81-B designations. The difference is the color temperature. An 81-2 will be slightly warmer than an 81-1. I forgot to mention warming filters to you. They are nice to have for warming a person's face or a landscape. Which is best? Well that would depend upon the color temperature and how much warming you feel that you need. They use to come in 81-A, B, C, and etcetera. I own both 81-A and 81-B B+W filters. There is a slight difference between the two. You might want to start with the 81-1 and see what you think of it.

I don't know anything about Haida filters.

[xkaes]

So...more research. Many say a polarizer is critical. In that case, where would I find one that fits the 100mm Z-Pro? I only see Lee makes one for around 300 large ones.
Unless I am better off (more economical) getting this in a round filter for the 77mm lens and a step down ring for the 67mm.

As I mentioned earlier, I recommend getting any filter that you will be using a LOT in ROUND GLASS. What size you get is up to your lenses and "Cokin" system.

As to multiple graded filters use, all you need to do is look at the ground glass to know where to position them and if they are the correct strengths for the scene.

It's not as complicated as you seem to think.