Lite ribbon by LiteGear has what you need. Yes, it costs more but their stuff has a cri of 95 and is pretty damn bright. I've been using it for several years at work.
Lite ribbon by LiteGear has what you need. Yes, it costs more but their stuff has a cri of 95 and is pretty damn bright. I've been using it for several years at work.
While I agree 100% that there are superior metrics to CRI, if the OP limits their LED tape search to brands they can find CQS or RA2012 data for, their options will be pretty limited.
If on the other hand you accept that above 90 cri will be "pretty good" 80-90 will be eh and below 80 not so good you at least have a starting point.
If you're needs are more specific, CRI won't get you there, but in the absence of better information, its at least worth considering as an indicator.
Interesting read and LED database for those considering a similar project:
http://indiecinemaacademy.com/comple...i-cqs-tm30-15/
They consider several other factors than CRI as well.
They also mention that their database is in the process of being updated with even newer products.
I have one of these and 6 six-foot versions in my garage for... garage light. Don’t know if this would work for you but they are cheap, run cool, and provide LOTS of light.
https://www.samsclub.com/sams/linkab...-also-viewed:3
--- Steve from Missouri ---
I finished my two panels measuring 5.5" x 11.75". I can attach them together to make an almost square panel or I can mount them one above the other or use them separately. I found some 60º grids that are the right size and I also made a couple of snoots out of mat board. Everything works well.
I made some comparison exposures. Using these and then with a 500W Tungsten source. Exposures were the same, developed them together and I just made some prints. The subjects were book ends and album cover ends with plenty of various colors. I just took the prints out of the wash and the differences are so slight it's not a concern. The reds rendered slightly darker. This test was done using Ilford Fp4+ developed in tubes using Pyrocat HD 2:2:100.
Had I not already bought the Flexfire LED's I would have considered the ones Vinny mentioned because in color there is a difference, the yellows tend to render a bit green but since I made these for B&W work I'm quite happy with the results. I found a battery pack that can run both lights at the same time. I'll be testing them with a model who I've photographed before using strobes.
I hope this is useful to the community.
Last edited by chris_4622; 7-Jan-2018 at 10:00.
If you're worried about CRI, then you could build a box with red, green, and blue LED's, put each color on it's own circuit with an inline potentiometer, and then you can vary the color mix as you see fit. Then just take something that you want to call white, shine the light on it, and adjust until the object looks white to you. That would also allow you to match the colors of other light sources, such as overhead lighting, daylight, or flashes. And it could act like a variable color filter for your lens for B&W work.
Yuji has an excellent rep. in indy video circles. They have a decent selection of DIY stuff too. If it'll work for video, it'll work for anything we do here.
Bruce Watson
Peter, there are several CRI standards, CRI R96a standard is pretty good.
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