Buying good enough will cost less than designing and making the best possible.I’d like to build what to me would be the perfect large format camera.
Y'r rangefinder requirement is a killer, especially if you want to use more than one lens. I take it that you want to use a coupled rangefinder. Have you looked into rangefinder designs and thought about how to make one?Lightweight, compact, rangefinder, wide-standard lens.
Why a helicoid? There are good reasons why nearly all 4x5 cameras with coupled rangefinders focus by moving the front standard. Their RFs convert the standard's displacement forwards from the lens' infinity position into focused distance.What I’m searching for as a starting point though is a 95mm - 105mm lens in a helicoid, that covers 4x5 without movements.
As has already been pointed out, the Mamiya press system has two 100 mm lenses. The f/2.8 is a fast double Gauss type that won't cover 4x5. The f/3.5 is a tessar type that won't cover 4x5. You've already been told that a 100 or 105 f/5.6 plasmat type from, in alphabetical order, Fuji, Nikon or Rodenstock will just cover 4x5. Schneider's 100/5.6 Symmar-S won't. You'd be better off with a 90 mm ultrawide.Maybe the Mamiya Press 100mm? Anyone know this lenses circle?
Have your hearing checked.I hear the 75mm and 127mm both cover the 160mm but the 100 is faster so I’m guessing it might be too small.
Normal lenses from 2x3 press cameras can still record a decent image on modern film, but not on 4x5. None was made to cover 6x12, let alone 4x5, and none will.Any others that might, say from old 2x3 press cameras that could still record a decent image on modern film - ie good contrast and resolution?
If you want to make a 4x5 Leica, by all means go ahead. But don't underestimate how much you'll have to learn to do the job and don't expect to do it on the cheap. And understand that the camera with focusing apparatus and couple RF is the big problem. Choosing a lens or lenses to use on it is trivial.
I sort of agree.
You could make an inexpensive 4x5 "street machine" with a 105mm lens fixed at the hyperfocal distance. No focusing needed because basically everything will be in focus. You don't even need a viewfinder.
Want more sophistication? Just add a simple viewfinder -- quick, easy, cheap.
Want closer focusing capability for some odd reason? Put the lens in a helicoid mount and add an UNcoupled rangefinder -- quick, easy, cheap -- but I don't know why you would want to complicate a simple, easy "street machine". You would be able to drop the simple viewfinder, but you would need to figure out and mark the helicoid for the distance that the rangefinder produces. The whole process goes against the idea of a "street machine" -- but it would work OK. Just don't be surprised when your subject has disappeared.
Perhaps a better idea would be to drop the rangefinder and just add one mark in the middle of the helicoid for "group". For distance shots, set the helicoid for infinity. For close-ups, set it to maximum.
I use my Travelwide for this purpose. 2 or 3 film holders. One in camera, 2 in pocket. No GG. I use the wire 'sportsfinder' it came with. Tiny lens.
I have the helicoid marked with tape at 3 and 5 ft. I use flashbulbs in a pocketable Heiland Foto-Mite. Guide numbers.
No tripod, no lightmeter, no rangefinder, no tape measure. Quick and easy. The camera is well protected and invisible in a kids soft sided lunch box.
Check out the Mercury Camera if you haven't already, that should help give you some ideas for your build.
Here was my attempt - cigar box camera.
If you can find a NW you won't be disappointed.
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