If your main interest is portraiture, you know how important it is to have a camera that focuses with a gear-driven rear standard. This should be a primary consideration in your choice of a folding field camera.
If your main interest is portraiture, you know how important it is to have a camera that focuses with a gear-driven rear standard. This should be a primary consideration in your choice of a folding field camera.
Technika??? Drop bed + tilting front (and back, if so desired.) Maximum extension around 420 - 430mm. Not particularly cheap, though. Bomb-proof - you could use it to drive tent pegs. Not light (but lighter than my Canon 5D with battery pack and 70 - 200 lens!) Front rise is geared lever activated. Super Graphic would be reasonably good - drop bed and rear tilt (and forward tilt too - a bit clumsy to use, but it's there.) No gearing on the rise. Maybe $400 - $500 for one in excellent shape. Technika depending on age - Master Technika is probably $1500 - $2k in nice shape. Crown Graphic is nice - I actually prefer it to the Super, but no front tilt. The rails inside the body are linked to the focusing mechanism so when the bed is dropped to get it out of the way of wide lenses focusing works. Probably not relevant for your requirements, though.
That's about my 2 cents worth.
I don't think I am able to help with the original question but am intrigued by this technique that you mention. Would anyone be able to explain what is achieved by this and exactly how it is done?Originally Posted by Ulophot
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I guess it's this:
Even a view camera has no raise it may be done by tilting the same both: lens plane and film plane, and correcting extension, because after a bed drop the lens plane is nearer from film.
Last edited by Pere Casals; 2-Jun-2017 at 05:24.
Is this to get the eyes in the sharpest part of the lens? Presumably this wouldn't be necessary with a decent modern lens.
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No...
With the view camera you use movements for some amazing reasons, one is inclinating (and also swing) the plane of focus, a common camera get things focused in a plane that's perpendicular to the front direction.
With view cameras it is common to inclinate than plane of focus. You do that with Tilt/Swing, with front or rear movements, if you tilt/swing the front then the circle of illumination can go outside of the film. It's like to handle a torch/flashlight, so you may want to rise/shift to put again the illuminated circle on film.
You may view these videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0JU-eHpk97Y
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wFjPVX6lrQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gR4m70xr9mE&t=98s
Regards
With your requirements and budget you're probably better off to keep your current camera
On my Tachihara, I often run out of front rise. That's why I usually mount my lenses higher than the center of the lens board. Of course, this can also be used to gain more front fall. I use plain 2 mm plywood instead of a Technika board, so I can reverse my lens boards.
Not an issue with a Deardorff! I've never run out of rise or bellows.
Start with the camera at zero movements. Align the lens level with the subject's eyes. This will give you a framing with a lot of space above the head, and little torso.
By adjusting the movements so that the film is raised relative to the lens, which remains level and aligned with the eyes, the framing moves the top of the head closer to the edge of the frame, and includes more of the torso.
This relies on having enough covering power from the lens, and being able to achieve enough back rise/front fall while keeping the lens axis horizontal and the film plane vertical.
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