14x17 build, with filmholders and tripod

[radii]

Thank you everybody for the kind comments.

The glamour shots of the camera aren't misleading, some of the functionality however isn't where I'd like it to be.
Aluminum has the worst friction coefficient and has therefore turned the travel of the rear standard stabilizer-nut, into a not-so-smooth operation (even with the addition of Teflon washers) ...conversely, the movement of the front standard carriage is so smooth (the lead screw is virtually resistance free yet without slack) that, depending on the extension and pull of the bellows, it's hard to keep the carriage in place (can be corrected with proper placement of the bellow support)...AND of course the sagging bellow ...and ...

[radii]

... You are capable of producing great photos with this wondrous camera.

Thank you very much.

I hope that some of that turns out to be true.

[Colin Graham]

Impressive work for sure!
Aluminum is a great material in so many ways but it does sucks mightily for friction surfaces. I've never tried anodizing to see if it helps, but have had good luck with UHMW film- https://www.mcmaster.com/#uhmw-polyethylene/=17p0pfa. Not perfect, but it does help quite a bit and seems a bit slicker than the teflon materials I've tried. As for bellows, I'll gladly take some sagging if it means there'e flexibility to use a wide range of focal lengths.

[Fred L]

speechless....simply a beautiful build and can't wait to see some work from this camera.

and if you ever decide to build film holders...I could use an extra 7x17 or so

[radii]

Impressive work for sure!
Aluminum is a great material in so many ways but it does sucks mightily for friction surfaces. I've never tried anodizing to see if it helps, but have had good luck with UHMW film- https://www.mcmaster.com/#uhmw-polyethylene/=17p0pfa. Not perfect, but it does help quite a bit and seems a bit slicker than the teflon materials I've tried. As for bellows, I'll gladly take some sagging if it means there'e flexibility to use a wide range of focal lengths.

Interesting. Thanks for the link.

Anodized pieces are much slicker (and would open up new design possibilities), but I haven't found a reasonably priced service that does small custom pieces (except paintball guns and yoyo amateurs) and the entry price to do it myself is just too damn high.

The other option would be to use Delrin in those friction places maybe. Once cut though, it looses it's factory shine and it's impossible to restore that.

[Pali K]

This is a gorgeous camera! Absolutely stunning workmanship.

Do you mind sharing the details for the ground glass?

Pali

[denverjims]

You're not planning to use it, are you?
Donating to MOMA would be more appropriate.
The first scratch would make me cry...

Beautiful!

[radii]

This is a gorgeous camera! Absolutely stunning workmanship.

Do you mind sharing the details for the ground glass?

Pali

Thank you. Glad you like it.

The ground glass is 1/8" acrylic, laser scored on one side and hand ground with 400 and 600 grit silicon carbide powder on the other.
Mix a bit of the powder with water, and with another thick piece of acrylic, grind away (for hours in my case). As the slurry dries up, rinse it off and mix a new batch.
It's still hit or miss for me though. No matter what, some circular scratches always remain.

[radii]

You're not planning to use it, are you?
Donating to MOMA would be more appropriate.
The first scratch would make me cry...

Beautiful!

Thank you. Very kind.

[radii]

speechless....simply a beautiful build and can't wait to see some work from this camera.

and if you ever decide to build film holders...I could use an extra 7x17 or so

Thank you.

As others have pointed out, making film holders is a ridiculously involved process for such a seemingly simple object. The tight tolerances, space restrictions, weight, light proofing etc..
Unless I'd have enough holders to make, to justify bundling machining setups to make it more efficient, I won't make one the side, just for fun. Never say never though ...