berlebach -every now and then, the tripod question

[Antonio Corcuera]

Dear LFers, I've been checking out this forum regularly for over 3 years now and have never posted a single comment. So, first of all, thanks to all for sharing your experiences and helping keep up LF really alive. I'm a semi-pro architecture photographer (semi meaning I have a regular office job and shoot mainly freelance with only 4-5 assignments a year) with interests in mountain landscape and studio work too. I've got a Sinar F2.
To the point: Time has come to part my massive Manfrotto 075 / Bogen 3036 tripod and matching 029/ 3027 3-way head. It worked fine, but I need a not so burdensome replacement. When shooting landscape, I've borrowed a Gitzo CF 1327 a couple of times (yes, I carry the F2 in my backpack) and I loved it. But my pockets are not endless and for the moment, it's out of consideration to get one of "those".
I've been reading good reviews about Berlebach tripods, seems the 3032 is the one. The idea of using only the built-in ball head in the field is very attractive. Will the F2 be OK on the head? Is it feasible to also use it with a 3D head for reliable architecture work? Any one uses a Berlebach for this?
Architecture is the priority (shooting around 70% of the time v/s 20% landscape and 10% studio). I'm 5ft10".
Thanks in advance

[Bob Salomon]

Antonio,

Berelbach does not have a built in ball head. It has a built-in leveling column so you usually would want a head to supplement the limited leveling in the tripod (±15•). The leveling supplied with the tripod is an aid in getting the camera level on uneven surfaces while maintaining the best leg positions. It is not designed as a full function camera positioning device.

[ronald moravec]

Maybe current models do not have the "ball head ", but I use use the one on mine with no accessory head of any kind. Some clarification is in order in that it is not a true ball such as the Arca Swiss, but a ball with the camera connection plate built in and it is limited to about 30 degrees in any direction. I consider this adequate for view camera work, but it will not allow you to take a 35mm camera and make verticals. View cameras of course make verticals in other fashons.

Other models had a center column that could be tilted 15 deg on a similar ball clamping mechanism. Mine has no center column and so the tip is not limited by the center column striking the legs.

Perhaps models without center columns are no longer offered. If HP is the current importer, they would have the most up to date information.

[Roger Richards]

Hi Antonio, I have a Berlebach 3032 and like it very much. It is well built and quite sturdy, enough for 4x5 and for most 8x10 cameras. It is a good tripod for most uses but I do not recommend it as a walking around unit for reasons of weight and length.

[Moritz Hofmann]

Hi Antonio,

the 3032 has an build in leveling ball (rather then a column). While, as Bob pointed out, it does not have the same movements of a full ball head, it offers plenty of tilt (30° not 15!) in all directions. I just put my F1 with 150mm Sironar on my Berlebach UNI 26 and tiltet it 30° to the front: the nearest point on my focussing screen is about 1.15 meters away from the center of the tripod. That should be enough foreground in allmost all cases. You can still use tilt on your F2 and extend the leg(s) showing to you to get even more foreground.
Using my Manfrotto/Bogen 405 pan and tilt head on top of the UNI 16 isn't a problem at all. The 3032 has s smaller ball and camerabase though. But it should still be fine. Others might confirm this.

[Brian Ellis]

I'm a little surprised that a ball head would interest given your architectural work. It's pretty difficult to get verticals and horizontals perfectly aligned with a ball head since when one direction moves the others tend to move as well. I do quite a bit of architectural photography and got frustrated with the difficulty of getting things perfect ly aligned even with a pan and tilt head so I replaced my Bogen 3047 with a Bogen 410 geared head and have been happy with it. Of course you can do other things besides architecture with this head since you don't have to use the gears but it's ideal for architecture.

[Antonio Corcuera]

Thank you all for the replies.
Brian, as mentioned in my question, I only plan to use the ball head for landscape work. I would NEVER try to do architecture work without a 3D head!
I live in Spain and can only consider buying/importing a Berlebach from Germany (no distribution here). I have done my homework a bit on the manufacturer's website and have narrowed to the 3032. Bob mentions a center column, but according to the site, the 3032 has no column but a "mounting head with ball". At just over 3 kg without the head, the length (90cm) seems to be the only issue when backpacking. Still manageable I might wrongly think... But since my main use is for architectural work, I'm more worried about mounting a 3D head. Can the "ball" easily be unlocked by mistake? Will a head cover the bubble level? Is it comparable to mounting a head directly on a standard tripod base?

[otzi]

I am surprised you are looking at any 3 way head. There is a sinar tilt leveler but if that is too expensive second hand, a similar device is marketed by an Italian outfit, I forget the company. The sinar gives you the side tilt by rolling the bar in it's clamp. Saves having a head at all and therefore less height and more stability.

[jose angel]

Hi Antonio, let me give you my backpacker´s opinion; a 90 cms/3kg tripod for backpacking is too much big and heavy... it depends of the total weight of your equipment, the size of your bag, and the time your shoulders can tolerate the load. Of course, you can encourage yourself to bear it.

For an easier horizon leveling is a must a 3 way head, but you can work with little complication with a ball head. I have own different heads and I finished with ball heads on all my tripods. The first reason are the size and weight of ball vs 3way heads, and 2nd, their general higher quality (smoothness, strenght, etc.). Beware of plastic parts on tripods. I have suffered only bad experiences with plastic locks, hinges, plates, etc. (I never use Berlebach). Good luck,

[jose angel]

To minimize vibrations, I think the best way is to fit the camera directly to the head, and this directly to the tripod. Columns are sometimes useful, but another weak point on some tripods. I have even removed the cork pad from my quick release plate. If you want to install a head on the tripod, a built-in leveling attachment could be an unnecessary added interface (and a new weight). Just one more thought.