Zone VI 8x10 Enlarger w/ VC Head and timer new to me any advice

[Duolab123]

I picked up a nice clean Type 2, Zone VI enlarger, 8x10, with the VC cold light head and a Zone VI compensating timer. The timer took me some time to figure out. I just picked this stuff up today. Actually there are two identical enlargers, just 1 has the 8x10 setup.
I'm trying to find a manual for the timer if anyone can help me
My current 8x10 enlarger is a beautiful old Elwood, if you are using graded paper it's a darn nice, affordable rig.

I drove 180 miles round trip got both enlargers and some other bits for 200 bucks. I figured I can make it work if I can get used to the light source and the timer.

I need to get it setup and give it a go.

Any observations, advice, or a lead on the timer instructions would be appreciated.

Best Regards Mike

[neil poulsen]

The timer's really pretty self-explanatory. There are two connections between the head and the timer. There's a regular AC plug on the left side that powers he head. There's a second connection that plugs onto the top of the head with a funny plug that connects the timer to a sensor located inside the head. There's a third connection on top of the head that goes to wall AC power. This powers the heater inside the head, to help make it more stable.

Don't expect the "seconds" to be real time. They may be faster, or slower than real seconds. But, this isn't an impediment to printing. If you can get instructions, that's worth while. There is a certain set of steps to follow in powering the head. Wrong steps can potentially cause damage. (I forget exactly what this is.) If I can find my set of instructions, I can let you know.

Not so obvious, there's a recessed screw inside the timer that permits you to adjust the duration of the seconds.

[Duolab123]

The timer's really pretty self-explanatory. There are two connections between the head and the timer. There's a regular AC plug on the left side that powers he head. There's a second connection that plugs onto the top of the head with a funny plug that connects the timer to a sensor located inside the head. There's a third connection on top of the head that goes to wall AC power. This powers the heater inside the head, to help make it more stable.

Don't expect the "seconds" to be real time. They may be faster, or slower than real seconds. But, this isn't an impediment to printing. If you can get instructions, that's worth while. There is a certain set of steps to follow in powering the head. Wrong steps can potentially cause damage. (I forget exactly what this is.) If I can find my set of instructions, I can let you know.

Not so obvious, there's a recessed screw inside the timer that permits you to adjust the duration of the seconds.

Neil, Thanks, this helps, I played around with the stuff last night pretty cool. The timer, if it works the way it is supposed to, sounds like a great thing.

I currently print VC with a dichro 45s color head, I use yellow and magenta together (I'm trying to say constant neutral density) so can adjust contrast and keep the same time. I'm hoping some good Samaritan will find a copy of the timer instructions. I even looked at the Wayback Machine, couldn't find anything.

Sure would be nice if someone would give me a Heiland LED head for this :-)

Best, Mike

I've got to get the beasties out of my wife's car and down to my darkroom. They are a lot easier to move without the lead weights!

[cowanw]

There is a Zone vi group on APUG.
Here is how to do what you want to do
http://www.jbhphoto.com/wp-content/u...ljbharlin1.pdf
I use the Split Grade system and so cannot give any other advice except to point out that "seconds" in green are longer than "seconds" in Blue, so that 10 seconds green and then 10 seconds blue exposure is not the same as 10 seconds green plus blue. (not even considering the dimming dial function.)

[cowanw]

By the way, you didn't mention if you had a Contrast Control box with the Compensating timer box.

[Duolab123]

By the way, you didn't mention if you had a Contrast Control box with the Compensating timer box.

Yes, contrast control, alphabet for soft and hard. Lamp intensity control, and focus all on one control box for the VC head. The timer just seems to be integrating Lux? beeps faster with more light slower with less light. I think everything is working right. I think this may be a neat set up. The glass less holder works great with nice ESTAR base Tri-X. Still haven't got it upright yet. I am hoping I can use for split printing, but just having a VC head puts me ahead of the Elwood.

I need to make a short table, about 20 inches high to set the baseboard on if I want to go full height in my darkroom.

Thanks for the help, Mike

[Peter Lewin]

Duolab: If you haven't already seen this, here is the contrast grade chart for the VC control box: http://www.bnimages.com/files/zonevicontrast.pdf

Tomorrow I will see if I can scan and post the instruction sheet for the Compensating Timer. I find the timer very useful when I change grades during printing. IOW, I usually make my test strips and first print at Grade 2 settings (unless the contact sheet tells me that the negative needs to be more or less contrasty than normal). But frequently I will see from the first print that I need to change the grade settings. The timer readjusts the nominal time so that despite the different light output of the new grade setting, the whites stay fixed at the same value as the first good print, and only the contrast changes with new settings.

One other "trick:" while the head has a built-in heater, I don't completely trust it to keep the tubes at operating temperature. So when I'm printing, once the print is in the fixer, I turn the enlarger back on in focus mode. That keeps the tubes at operating temperature. Before the next print, I put the enlarger back into exposure mode (turning off the tubes), put a fresh sheet of paper in the easel, and make the next print. That way the tubes are never cold during the print cycle.

[Duolab123]

Duolab: If you haven't already seen this, here is the contrast grade chart for the VC control box: http://www.bnimages.com/files/zonevicontrast.pdf

Tomorrow I will see if I can scan and post the instruction sheet for the Compensating Timer. I find the timer very useful when I change grades during printing. IOW, I usually make my test strips and first print at Grade 2 settings (unless the contact sheet tells me that the negative that it really needs to be more or less contrasty than normal). But frequently I will see from the first print that I need to change the grade settings. The timer readjusts the nominal time so that despite the different light output of the new grade setting, the whites stay fixed at the same value as the first good print, and only the contrast changes with new settings.

One other "trick:" while the head has a built-in heater, I don't completely trust it to keep the tubes at operating temperature. So when I'm printing, once the print is in the fixer, I turn the enlarger back on in focus mode. That keeps the tubes at operating temperature. Before the next print, I put the enlarger back into exposure mode (turning off the tubes), put a fresh sheet of paper in the easel, and make the next print. That way the tubes are never cold during the print cycle.

Good information. I think this method will be how I will start. The pre-heating is something I remember from 35 years back with an Aristo head I had. It too had a heater, but if I recall I would run a blank exposure before the real thing.
Right now for up to 4x5 I use a dichro head. I use combination of yellow and magenta for all contrast settings, this allows for same total filter density so I can keep exposure the same and adjust contrast as needed. I think with the compensating timer this will get me the same freedom, but now up to 8x10.
Thanks, this is very helpful.
Best Regards Mike.

[Luis-F-S]

One other "trick:" while the head has a built-in heater, I don't completely trust it to keep the tubes at operating temperature. So when I'm printing, once the print is in the fixer, I turn the enlarger back on in focus mode. That keeps the tubes at operating temperature. Before the next print, I put the enlarger back into exposure mode (turning off the tubes), put a fresh sheet of paper in the easel, and make the next print. That way the tubes are never cold during the print cycle.

You don't have to do that with the compensating timer. Try to save the bulbs and electronics.

[geneg12]

You don't have to do that with the compensating timer. Try to save the bulbs and electronics.

I'd like to see a photo of your new enlarger with the timer and cold head light.

Thanks,
Gene