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Thread: Anyone have any experience with replicating view camera parts with a 3D printer?

  1. #1

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    Anyone have any experience with replicating view camera parts with a 3D printer?

    I picked up a 4x5 Sinar Norma while back which was missing the 4 riser end caps. Shopping around, I have located some for sale but at a price of $50 each. These are pretty much non-functional parts made out of plastic and not subject to wear or stress, so seems like creating them using a 3D printer a viable option. OEM end caps are threaded but friction fitting end caps would easily do making the cap's fabrication (to me) a whole lot easier.

  2. #2

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    Re: Anyone have any experience with replicating view camera parts with a 3D printer?

    If you aren't concerned about having original parts, you could probably find slightly smaller caps and wrap some masking tape around them to make them fit.

    Kumar

  3. #3

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    Re: Anyone have any experience with replicating view camera parts with a 3D printer?

    3d printed parts are only cheap if you own the printer and/or you can create the design yourself. If you're lucky, there may be a maker space near you that could help you make the parts.

    p.s. You could buy a cheap printer for about the price of the four caps

  4. #4
    Tin Can's Avatar
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    Re: Anyone have any experience with replicating view camera parts with a 3D printer?

    Quote Originally Posted by B.S.Kumar View Post
    If you aren't concerned about having original parts, you could probably find slightly smaller caps and wrap some masking tape around them to make them fit.

    Kumar
    Yes, search McMaster Carr.

  5. #5

    Re: Anyone have any experience with replicating view camera parts with a 3D printer?

    I used a 3D printer to make a new set of bases for Norma bubble levels. They came out fine, and were much cheaper than buying new or used ebay, but figuring out the software (I used SketchUp) took a while.

  6. #6

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    Re: Anyone have any experience with replicating view camera parts with a 3D printer?

    Wood is good for replacement of many small plastic parts, and can be made with simple hand tools...

    Also, if you go through plastic scrap (bottle caps, jar lids, old junk stuff, etc) you might find something that can be adapted, sometimes with the help of epoxy...

    Hardware stores/auto stores/electrical/plumbing supply might even have something close that can be adapted... Be creative, and done right, you might not be able to tell it's home brew... :-)

    Steve K
    Last edited by LabRat; 24-Dec-2016 at 09:06.

  7. #7

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    Re: Anyone have any experience with replicating view camera parts with a 3D printer?

    I recently tried to find post caps for a Toyo G, a special order for $16.50 each. I determined that the cap was M10X1.5 thread and found some steel socket head screws that fit in Home Depot. Then on the way home I had a better idea and stopped at a NAPA auto parts store and found inexpensice black plastic barbed interior trim fasteners that fit perfectly and are just the right size and appearance. They have quite a selection and I am sure you can find a size that works.

  8. #8

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    Re: Anyone have any experience with replicating view camera parts with a 3D printer?

    Does anyone know the threat size for the riser end cap on top of a Sinar 4x5 Norma standard? Getting a bolt that size and epoxying over its head a plastic cap seems to be the best way to go.

    thanks

    Greg

  9. #9

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    Re: Anyone have any experience with replicating view camera parts with a 3D printer?

    Take your Norma to a hardware store, and they can try different sizes. You could use the right sized bolt and a washer, until a more reasonably priced option becomes available.

  10. #10

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    Re: Anyone have any experience with replicating view camera parts with a 3D printer?

    Not sure of the size, but metric threads usually have a uniform pitch (not NC or NF like SAE) so just having the dia will be useful and easier to find the screw...

    Also, maybe putting an oversize (fender) washer on the end under the screw will suffice???

    Steve K

    (oops, typing while Neil was typing... All good stuff!!!)

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