Graflex Anniversary Speed Graphic 4x5 questions

[Kirk Gittings]

I have a former student of mine in Chicago (who took a digital class from me) looking at buying one of these as his first basic LF. I've never owned or used one really. I know there are people here who have vast experience with them. What should he be looking at (that I can pass on) in terms of wear and tear to figure out if it is usable (bellows of course). What are typical problems with them that would render one a poor value. I will be there next week and I may be able to take a look at it with him too.

[Oren Grad]

The one thing that's distinctive about a Speed Graphic compared to pretty much any other "basic" LF camera is the focal plane shutter. A malfunctioning shutter mechanism can often be repaired and a badly-deteriorated shutter curtain can in principle be replaced, but the repair cost could drive the total investment beyond what makes sense for a starter camera. Finding replacement shutter curtain material at all in the required size can sometimes be a hassle.

A second sort-of-distinctive issue is the rangefinder; again, a broken or mis-calibrated one can often be repaired, at a cost.

The rest is the usual stuff. It's always wise to check the bellows for cracks or pinholes, though in my experience bellows on Graphics tend to be pretty robust. Make sure the controls and movements work smoothly. If it has a Graphic back (plain spring back, no Graflok fittings), make sure the springs aren't so tight that getting a holder in and out is a struggle.

If your student doesn't want to use either the shutter or the rangefinder, though, I think the logic for choosing a Speed as a first camera starts to break down; you end up with a camera that's relatively heavy and bulky for the limited capabilities it offers.

[Kirk Gittings]

Thanks Oren.

[Jim C.]

Oren pretty much summed it up, but there are times that the focal plane shutter is still good and the camera was stored well
or the FPS could have been replaced before the Anni's retirement, or previous owner who was handy replaced.
If the FPS is in good working condition it offers the use of barrel lenses without them being mounted in a shutter.
Speeds were a press camera, so there are limited movements, front tilt was added to the Crown and Pacemaker,
but at the expense of smaller proprietary lens boards.

The rangefinder in my experience is always out of whack, from either old age or from not having the original lens
they can be re calibrated to a new lens.

Physically examining the FPS requires removing the camera back and winding the shutter all the way to it's smallest slit
you want to make sure the there's no beginnings of tears where the metal stays holds each of the slits open.

[LabRat]

Thumbs up for what Jim and Oren said!!!

A couple of minor things to add are to look for wear where the film holder loads, make sure the Ektalite (fresnel) screen is there and in good shape, operate the bed/FS and check for smoothness of operation (not binding or bent), bellows will generally be good but listen carefully when extending FS from body to hear crackling/snapping if the bellows stick to itself and look if bellows don't fully extend, flashlight bellows for pinholes (they usually don't have them), see how dry/wet the leather outside the body is or if it's coming up anywhere, and lastly, open bellows and give the inside a good sniff to detect if the camera might have been a mold/mildew colony at one time...

Other than that, these cameras are as tough as an army boot, and can operate with some minor issues, and still shoot well... (Within limits...)

Steve K

[jp]

If the bellows don't leak light, and the FP shutter works and isn't full of pinholes, I'd think it's good. I don't think the the rails connect to the rails in the camera body (I think that started with the pacemaker/crown but I could be wrong) so that might improve the situation of smooth working straight rails.

I use my speed graphics for barrel lenses mostly (that's mostly what I use with large format), and sometimes for a simple 4x5 that can fold up self contained. Never used the rangefinder.

The carrying strap is apt to be dry-rotted, but that can be replaced with a belt or something similar.

[LabRat]

Thumbs up for what Jim and Oren said!!!

A couple of minor things to add are to look for wear where the film holder loads, make sure the Ektalite (fresnel) screen is there and in good shape, operate the bed/FS and check for smoothness of operation (not binding or bent), bellows will generally be good but listen carefully when extending FS from body to hear crackling/snapping if the bellows stick to itself and look if bellows don't fully extend, flashlight bellows for pinholes (they usually don't have them), see how dry/wet the leather outside the body is or if it's coming up anywhere, and lastly, open bellows and give the inside a good sniff to detect if the camera might have been a mold/mildew colony at one time...

Other than that, these cameras are as tough as an army boot, and can operate with some minor issues, and still shoot well... (Within limits...)

Steve K

Oh, this is an Anniversary, so don't worry about the fresnel (they were on the Pacemaker models)... The bed rail and body rails are two pieces... Some of these may have a Graflok back conversion, which is a better choice to add a RF back, etc (then look for the fresnel)... Pre-Pacemakers had the flat wooden C lensboard which is easy to find/make...

Steve K

[mdarnton]

I'll add another thing, I don't know how common it might be, but mine is doing it: watch out for worn hinge rivets where the struts attach to the bed. Some day soon I'm going to have to replace mine, and the camera was otherwise mint! ???? If it's got a Graflok back, watch for broken springs or hooks--got bit by that one once, too.

Kirk, If you can't be there, you can send him over to my shop and he and I can look at it together. I can also be a resource for things like relaigning the RF, etc., after he buys it. I'm just a block from the front door of the Art Institute and there M-F for a week or two yet before I go teach my summer class.

[Jim Jones]

Sometimes a Graphic press camera has the inner rails damaged by the camera being dropped or someone trying to force it closed without racking the focusing rail all the way back. I've heard that replacement rails are available online, or they can be swapped from side to side to restore some functionality. A Velcro strap works as a quick and easy replacement for a worn or missing leather strap. For some, the availability of parts and the extensive range of accessories for the Graphic cameras is useful.

Remember, the Graphic line isn't the only decent press camera. The Burke & James may not have quite the build quality of the Graphic, but has more versatile front movements and a revolving back. The Busch (sometimes sold as a Tower brand) also has a revolving back, but a small proprietary lens board. The Meridian and the MPP are the poor man's Linhof, with back movements.

[mdarnton]

I have a B&J also, and find myself using it more than my Crown Graphic. It doesn't have an RF, but is a great field camera for normal focal lengths. And. . . revolving back!