thats the way to do it.Originally Posted by jnanian
I have had the same kind of problem until i switched over to latent image based art.
Basically, there is no need to use any liquids in the trays, i just take the sheets out of the holder, place them in the trays, run the entire process, then hang to dry (which happens almost instantly) and all this in full daylight. The resulting image is almost always very close to what i had envisioned originally.
Where did you buy the b&W King? I went to their website and don't see any way to buy the tank and reels. Do you just email them?
Thanks
On eBay.
The first production run for our SP-445 is finished and product is on the way to the distribution center in Hong Kong.
We accidentally sent a few too many units and rather than pay to air freight them to the USA, we're having a "Warehouse Special". Visit https://shop.stearmanpress.com/ for details.
Here's a short video: https://youtu.be/QpWt88sju7M
B&W King selling his tanks only on Ebay. They don't do sales from Web site.
Has anyone used either of these yet? How good are they? I'm looking for something to process small batches in and either of these might do it. Is there anything else out there that might also do 5x7? I mostly shoot FP4 and HP5 at rated speed.
Kent in SD
In contento ed allegria
Notte e di vogliam passar!
A nice possibility is using a paper safe. $30 new. Then you get daylight tray development
Like:
Doran Paper Safe for Film and Paper 8.5 x 11" , I use that straight for 8x10, with custom selfmade separator (trivial) to process 4 sheets in a cooking.
Not suitable for sheet high volume process, but ideal to cook a single sheet in a perfect way.
Tray development has 2 great advantages:
1) You can use developer one shot without innecessary waste.
2) You have a wonderful degree of control with agitation.
With trays you can use reduced agitation or stand process with minimal risk of bromide drag. With diluted developer and careful agitation you can control highlights in case of challenging scenes.
Tips:
Place emulsion up to not damage it with agitation.
Once I drop developer I close lights to throw stop bath, I close the safe and I open lights again, after 10 sec of stop bath you can open the safe because developer is not active, you can fix the sheets with light open and see how quick it is working, so you know the fixer's state.
Even you can let light light arrive to the film while you are pouring the stop bath with no fog added to the negative as newly exposed grains need an activation time with before its development starts, and by then developer is completely deactivated by stop bath. Anyway just test that effect with your film and dveloper to know what margin do you have.
I always fix lights open, this is perfectly safe. I you want to know if it is safe just develop negative, apply stop bath, and let it exposed to light 1h before you fix it, and then compare with reference.
Regards.
BW King makes a 5x7 tank. The Patterson Orbital will do 4 sheets of 4x5, two sheets of 5x7, or one 8x10.
I just looked at the B&W system today in person. It looks quite well made. I'll probably get one within the next month. I'll report my findings.
regarding Cassais's methods,
be cautious mixing the chemistry directly together without discarding the previous bath first, often toxic gases are released when they mix. Use Local ventilation if you must do it.
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