4x5 developing tanks?

[Randy]

Been processing in trays for many years. Cover holes and / or wait until it is dark outside.

[Duolab123]

If you are not going to develop a lot, trays to start. I still have my Kodak hard rubber 1/2 gallon tans and hangers, can be had for next to nothing. I use Jobo 2509n reels. I cheat and use IR googles makes it fool proof.
I've used the SS Nikor sheets tanks, hard to get used to, work great if you can load. You need to make sure to adjust, Nikor put little graduation marks on the vertical rails so you could adjust to all the standard sheet sizes as well as pack films. In my 59 year old hands I would want ir goggles to load.
If you decide to go with Jobo reels it's gonna cost couple hundred.
I'm with Randy, start with trays or some old hangers and deep tanks.
I'm spoiled now I use a Jobo processor with a lift and the 2509n reels, perfect. The Expert tanks are perfection but out of my budget (for now)
Development is the best part of film!
Have fun, Best Regards Mike

[santoroman]

Once our garage is finished I'll be able to setup a mini darkroom in the corner.

[santoroman]

If you are not going to develop a lot, trays to start. I still have my Kodak hard rubber 1/2 gallon tans and hangers, can be had for next to nothing. I use Jobo 2509n reels. I cheat and use IR googles makes it fool proof.
I've used the SS Nikor sheets tanks, hard to get used to, work great if you can load. You need to make sure to adjust, Nikor put little graduation marks on the vertical rails so you could adjust to all the standard sheet sizes as well as pack films. In my 59 year old hands I would want ir goggles to load.
If you decide to go with Jobo reels it's gonna cost couple hundred.
I'm with Randy, start with trays or some old hangers and deep tanks.
I'm spoiled now I use a Jobo processor with a lift and the 2509n reels, perfect. The Expert tanks are perfection but out of my budget (for now)
Development is the best part of film!
Have fun, Best Regards Mike

I had a Jobo system in high school (20 years ago) since then I was dip tanking in college and after school it was all developed at a lab. $3 a sheet is not bad but I really like having the control and since there are so little people in the Seattle developing 4x5...I think it's time to just bit the bullet and make my little man cave in the garage. Tray's will prob come first then I'll make the jump to something more fancy...or maybe not. thanks

santo

[tonyowen]

For 4x5 processing I use Jobo 2500 tank plus 2509/2509N reel. The 2509N can be used successfully without the wings.
Also the 2500 tank with the 2502 reel can be for 35mm, 6x6, 6x9 processing, whilst the 2509/2509n can be used for 9x12 and 4x5 sheet film.
Easily handled inside a changing bag
Uses a small amount of chemicals 270ml for single reel.
regards
Tony

[IanG]

I've used JOBO 2000 developing tanks since 1976, mine both take two reels each holding 6 sheets of 5x4 film. These pre-date Jobo's rotary processors & tanks and are designed for Inversion processing.

Ian

[Neil Purling]

I have a Fink-Roselieve tank which looks like it can take several formats like 4x5, quarter-plate and 2x3. It is similar to the Yankee, except that the film sheets stand in 'portrait' format, wheras in the Yankee they are 'landscape'. Thus the Yankee needs less solution.
Mine does hold 12 sheets, but I have had issues with even developing. Therefore I don't try and develope more than six at a time.
With some films' like the print stuff I add 1ml of wetting agent to the developer to ensure there are no pin-holes & that is after doing a pre-soak.
I will be doing the same when I start developing X-ray film.

[Alan9940]

Just to clarify because I read somewhere in this thread that the Nikkor reel can be adjusted, the reel for the B&W King tank is made (sized) strictly for 4x5 and is not adjustable.

[santoroman]

I think it's just going to come down to me buying one or two different types and seeing which one I like. Love the Jobo system by I have a feeling the wife my take one of my nuts off when she finds out which one I want. I kinda like my boys. They make me who I am...
santo

[AtlantaTerry]

Let me add my two cents here...

For small / short runs of 4x5" B&W film, I use an HPcombiPlan. It works great.

For larger runs I use Kodak #4A stainless steel racks in 116 ounce plastic tubs that I (finally) found! They were at Dollar Tree stores. Yes, everything until the fixer bath has to be done in total darkness but I've been developing film since 1955 so that really does not bother me a bit.

I can comfortably fit 10 of the Kodak racks into a tub. If I feel lucky, I can cram a dozen racks in but normally, I don't like to take a chance.

One trick I use with the Kodak racks is to wrap a large rubber band around the bunch. Otherwise what happens in the dark they want to splay out because I'm holding them by the bar across the top. When they splay out it is very easy for one of the racks to miss being inserted into a bath.

My "darkroom" is my bathroom. I block the window with black foamcore boards that I cut to fit. Being a belt and suspenders kind of guy I also cover the window with blackout fabric that I bought at Joann's Fabric Store. I hang the fabric from a simple curtain rod that I also bought at the store. On each end of the curtain rod I tied a length of Nylon fishing line. I hammered in a small finishing nail at the top left and right corners of the wooden window frame. When I'm assembling the darkroom, I loop the fishing line over the top of the window frame. The nails are simply there to keep the fishing line from rolling off. It takes about 30 minutes to set up the darkroom then about the same amount of time to put everything away.

To dry the processed sheets of film, I bought a nylon rope from a Dollar Tree store then tied knots in it about 2 inches apart. (The knots prevent the Kodak racks from sliding down hill then bumping into the next wet sheet of film.) I hang the rope above the bathtub - one end goes over the basket of bath items hanging from the shower head and the other end attaches to the towel rack above the far end of the tub. There is a stainless steel "S" hook tied into each end of the rope to facilitate setting up and breaking down.

When the chemistry and equipment are not being used, I store everything in two large grey "flip top" stacking plastic tubs from Home Depot.