Perfect tool for making cameras?

[Jim C.]

Funny this subject popped up since I was just looking at the various table top CNC machines
for work related projects. Most have a very shallow Z axis about 3" max.

Playing devils advocate here -
Most if not all parts for a camera can be sourced from various mechanical automation parts companies
like rack and pinions. You can slot wood easily for a front rise, aluminum would be a little
more difficult but still doable with jigs, care and a router, you'd want a mill since most of these
prosumer hobby CNC's would probably self destruct cutting steel if you go that route.

So I wonder, what would you make for a camera with a table top CNC that you couldn't do with manual tools ?

[Drew Wiley]

I limp along with an old industrial drill press, and once in awhile simply farm something out to a real machinist. I'm slow and methodical, but have built some nice looking very precise gear. I'm probably not going to try to make a camera. No need. Just finished completely refurbishing an old L184 enlarger, mechanically that
is. Now it looks and functions like new; but I still have the electrical side to work on, or more likely, will bypass for direct wiring. The less fuss, the better. I've
already got an even bigger color enlarger with voices in its head from too much solid state whatever. I also tend to cannibalize all kinds of things here and there
when devising equipment. It's fun for awhile, but then I get burnt out and just want to get back to printing.

[wrieselbach]

First of all, I'd have a question about that router. Odd's are, it might not be replaceable. DeWalt is infamous for frequently changing the specs of their outsourced
products, and yes, nearly all of them are outsourced. I went through that this morning with our 40K door pre-hanging machine. It's virtually obsolete due to this
exact problem. The other would be the run-out accuracy of the router spindles themselves. This is really a homeowner quality motor. With CNC you also need materials you can post-harden if necessary. This would include aluminum hardware stock, which can be post-anodized. Keith Canham is extremely proficient at this kind of manufacturing. For actual miniature machining instead I've long coveted the little "hobby milling machine" Jet makes. But I pretty much have all the gear I need now anyway, and am getting tired of building equipment. And I'd go nuts with any kind of programming software. Guess one needs to grow up with CAD programs instead of a drafting table! But at least that table now holds a big print trimmer.

The routers on these are replaceable. If DeWalt were to discontinue this one, a mount will be created in no time for the next one. They have several mounts available, for several different spindle types, and more are added often. <not associated - but I've had one for a while now>

[Tin Can]

Funny this subject popped up since I was just looking at the various table top CNC machines
for work related projects. Most have a very shallow Z axis about 3" max.

Playing devils advocate here -
Most if not all parts for a camera can be sourced from various mechanical automation parts companies
like rack and pinions. You can slot wood easily for a front rise, aluminum would be a little
more difficult but still doable with jigs, care and a router, you'd want a mill since most of these
prosumer hobby CNC's would probably self destruct cutting steel if you go that route.

So I wonder, what would you make for a camera with a table top CNC that you couldn't do with manual tools ?

Well, I am lousy with wood chisels, lap joints, and all kinds of wood joinery. I like to bend wood. Warped, I know.

I have a good handle on all hardware available I read McMaster Carr like a magazine.

I would use this 'router table' with programmable movements to route the GG frame for precision T, for glass, perhaps even outer dimensions. Then make curved slots for the rear swing turntable. I would never get that right by hand. Continuing with wood, make the front stand recesses, see I am not a wood worker, what's that called? Who cares. Oh rebate! Then make matching lens boards.

Then start on struts for folding and tilt on back, need I go on? No steel anywhere. Brass screws. Stock hinges.

Yes there are many ways to do this, I could stack wood and glue it up for rebates. I could find off the shelf slotted metal. I could hand route lens boards. I already do stack hobby plywood for lens boards. I hand saw 8x8" Deardorff boards. I must admit they are seldom square. But it's OK.

I could make the whole thing out foam core, I'm good with a knife. BTW, no rack and pinion. I like the design of an older? 16x20 Chamonix on offer elsewhere right now. Don't tell Oren.

And then I would have learned something and the next time I would do a better job.

Are you Norwegian by any chance? I am and they always choose the hardest way to make a ship. Good ships, but they are not easy to make, their lives depended on the best ship. Grandpa was lost at sea or got tossed over, never met him. Rumor is he was ruder than me. There is a Norwegian church 1/2 mile from me, it's made like a ship, the Nave floor is shaped as hull, not a straight line in it. Sadly it will be destroyed soon. It's a fire trap.

I have made several boats from wood, by hand...to learn a little about wood. No computers were abused.

Only last night I was thinking of a new boat, really. Derivative of Viking design.

As for bellows, I ordered them today. No way am I making bellows.

Perhaps I am defensive, but I did title this thread as a question, not a sales brochure.

And please show us you hand whittled ULF camera.

Lastly, which CNC tabletops are you looking at?



Too much coffee!

[Leszek Vogt]

Those CNC set ups could have double use: set up a DSLR camera, make several shots of a LF negative/positive and stitch it. Peter, are ye listening ?

Les

[Peter De Smidt]

You know, Les, I had thought of that . I even talked with John at Microcarve about it a couple of years ago. The folks at Gigamacro used one of his earlier designs for their system. In the end I decided that I didn't want to spend that much money.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Well, I am lousy with wood chisels, lap joints, and all kinds of wood joinery.

I hear that. I worked for months on a wooden prototype of a radical camera. I'll try to find the drawings. It was an iterative process with several versions, but once I got it all together it would collapse under the weight of the large lens. I have a scrap barrel half full of the pretty curved parts. Aluminum is the only way for me to go with this. I'm watching your progress, Randy. Hope it works for you.

[ic-racer]

If making more than one, great. However, in my hands, by the time the CNC machine is programmed and set up, I'd already have a single piece of wood cut and shaped with conventional tools.

[jodyake]

i have a shopbot desktop. its a good machine and at the time (4 years ago ) the only real option for desktop cnc machines worth the money. prices and and quality of other cnc brands have improved since then but if you are serious about cnc i would highly suggest shopbot line of machines.
http://www.shopbottools.com/mproducts/desktop.htm

[Jim C.]

Well, I am lousy with wood chisels, lap joints, and all kinds of wood joinery. I like to bend wood. Warped, I know.

I have a good handle on all hardware available I read McMaster Carr like a magazine.

I would use this 'router table' with programmable movements to route the GG frame for precision T, for glass, perhaps even outer dimensions. Then make curved slots for the rear swing turntable. I would never get that right by hand. Continuing with wood, make the front stand recesses, see I am not a wood worker, what's that called? Who cares. Oh rebate! Then make matching lens boards.

Then start on struts for folding and tilt on back, need I go on? No steel anywhere. Brass screws. Stock hinges.

Yes there are many ways to do this, I could stack wood and glue it up for rebates. I could find off the shelf slotted metal. I could hand route lens boards. I already do stack hobby plywood for lens boards. I hand saw 8x8" Deardorff boards. I must admit they are seldom square. But it's OK.

I could make the whole thing out foam core, I'm good with a knife. BTW, no rack and pinion. I like the design of an older? 16x20 Chamonix on offer elsewhere right now. Don't tell Oren.

And then I would have learned something and the next time I would do a better job.

Are you Norwegian by any chance? I am and they always choose the hardest way to make a ship. Good ships, but they are not easy to make, their lives depended on the best ship. Grandpa was lost at sea or got tossed over, never met him. Rumor is he was ruder than me. There is a Norwegian church 1/2 mile from me, it's made like a ship, the Nave floor is shaped as hull, not a straight line in it. Sadly it will be destroyed soon. It's a fire trap.

I have made several boats from wood, by hand...to learn a little about wood. No computers were abused.

Only last night I was thinking of a new boat, really. Derivative of Viking design.

As for bellows, I ordered them today. No way am I making bellows.

Perhaps I am defensive, but I did title this thread as a question, not a sales brochure.

And please show us you hand whittled ULF camera.

Lastly, which CNC tabletops are you looking at?



Too much coffee!

Yep, you've had way too much coffee !

McMaster 'almost' has everything, expand your reading with - http://www.sdp-si.com/

Your points are well taken in making the gg frame with CNC.

Top most on my list for a CNC solution had been https://buildyourcnc.com/CNCMachineKits.aspx
I'd just get their controller / motor package - https://buildyourcnc.com/electronicscombo.aspx
and build my own gantry and base with aluminum and thompson rails.