Anyone use the B&W King 5x7 (or 4x5) developing reel & tank (Nikor-like)?

[bw-man]

Developed nicely on the second batch, but the blackened metal light damper at the top of mine is rusting a bit after two uses as well. That's a bit worrisome...

A tidbit: Stainless steel can rust if it is put in contact with regular steel at some point, and under some other conditions:
http://www.sperkoengineering.com/html/Rust.pdf
Extrapolating from this, it would seem, for instance, that cleaning your SS equipment with steel wool would the the worst of bad ideas.

Hello,Photographer friend
Recently, B&W KING developing tank roof sandwich parts process change, cancel the QPQ (Quench, Polish, Quench) double black process, adopts the single Teflon coating process (Polytetrafluoroetylene), improve the corrosion resistance of developing tank black dark layer, to avoid the QPQ problem with traces of the solution to produce chemical reaction.
This problem is solved thoroughly, and the quality and performance of B&W KING stainless steel developer can be improved again.
For a friend who has purchased a B&W KING developer, I will contact the email.
There is the QPQ problem of interlayer, to Chinese domestic friends, mail replacement parts. Friends outside China, mail Teflon complete development tank.(freight only).
Ensure that each user can safely use; Live up to everyone's expectations of B&W KING.
I can't speak English, this is computer translation. Probably not accurate, please understand.

[Rael]

I used mine for the first time last weekend, and I also noticed the slight rusting when I broke it out this week. I'm not sure from the translation if a replacement part is available for purchase or warranty exchange or something else?

[Alan9940]

I've used mine for about a year and have no rust in the top. But, I use a hair dryer to thoroughly dry the inside top after each use. I, too, cannot tell from the PM received if we prior buyers are supposed to get the new part. Hopefully, B&W King will clarify.

[David Aimone]

I guess we'll find out at some point. My tank is useable, and I have started rotating and inverting by sealing it with electrical tape during developing through fixing... More even development alternating rotation and inversion.

[bw-man]

I've used mine for about a year and have no rust in the top. But, I use a hair dryer to thoroughly dry the inside top after each use. I, too, cannot tell from the PM received if we prior buyers are supposed to get the new part. Hopefully, B&W King will clarify.

I used mine for the first time last weekend, and I also noticed the slight rusting when I broke it out this week. I'm not sure from the translation if a replacement part is available for purchase or warranty exchange or something else?

Dear photographer friend
The update of B&W KING developing tank Teflon parts has recently begun.
For photographers who have QPQ problems, please contact the email box: manager@bw-king.com, tell yourself the number of using the developing tank (bottom laser number), purchase date, mailing address, recipient, telephone.1. Update the parts for the sandwich, wafer and dial 3 QPQ.The replaced QPQ parts do not need to be mailed to China.
2. The update fee for Teflon parts is a symbolic $1.You only need to bear the cost of transportation.A complete stainless steel developer can be obtained, (not including film mounting rack).
3. The photographer of B&W KING through eBay network can directly transfer the transportation cost of the country to the country through PayPal.
I hope that every photographer friend who USES B&W KING will use this product update to use a more perfect developer.Please understand QPQ problem and processing method.

I can't speak English, this is the computer translation, may have wrong, please understand.

[Rael]

I guess we'll find out at some point. My tank is useable, and I have started rotating and inverting by sealing it with electrical tape during developing through fixing... More even development alternating rotation and inversion.

Unrelated question -- when you load your film, do you push it beyond the bar? I didn't, and rotating it the wrong way caused the film to pull itself partway out. Pushing it beyond the bar keeps it in place, but it's not easy to pull out of there after you develop....

[David Aimone]

You do have to push it in beyond the bar, I've found. If not, it may slip out. Removing it isn't as hard as it seems. I wet my hands with the photo-flo type solution that the film went through, with the film opening slot facing me horizontally gently use my thumbs to press down on the leading edge of the film (should be non-emulsion side if loaded correctly) and nudge forward past the bar. Not too hard with a few tries and haven't damaged any film yet.

Unrelated question -- when you load your film, do you push it beyond the bar? I didn't, and rotating it the wrong way caused the film to pull itself partway out. Pushing it beyond the bar keeps it in place, but it's not easy to pull out of there after you develop....

[Alan9940]

I release mine similar to David. I hold the reel with one hand on each end with the slot facing horizontally away from me. Then, I use both thumbs to gently push down on the edge of the film and slowly nudge it out. It does take patience because just the smallest edge of the film will cause it to hang. Once it has cleared the bar, I pull the film slowly out. I'm almost always wearing nitrile gloves when doing this because I develop with pyro film developers. Never damaged a single sheet of film, yet.

[David Aimone]

A personal update on using my 5x7 B&W King tank. I'm now getting perfect development with the following modification. After loading the tank, I use electrical tape to seal the top onto the bottom of the tank. When agitating, I alternate between internal rotation and inverting the tank by holding the little cap tightly on top. The electrical tape prevents leakage around the tank.

I was getting a faint vertical streak on my negatives where the non-emulsion side rested against the metal bar in the middle of the negative. The combination of rotation and inversion seems to have solved this issue and produces nice and evenly developed negatives. Since others have not had this problem, I am assuming it was due to either the film or the developer I'm using, or that the fixer wasn't clearing completely. I don't know, but this seems to have solved the problem nicely.

[Alan9940]

David,

Thanks for the tip regarding inversion/rotation agitation. I, too, have always used electrical tape around the tank can and lid because I've only done inversion agitation with the B&W King tank. However, I do occasionally get a single very faint vertical line on the neg along where the center bar sits. I will definitely try your technique next time!