Uneven development of FP4 in XTOL in JOBO 3010

[originalphoto]

one question: did you let emulsion side face to wall? if so, you could get this kind of result.

[Cor]

I process FP4+ in Xtol 1:1 min volume 500ml, stick to 100 ml stock per 4 sheets 4*5 in 3010 tank on a Simma roller (My CPA+ cannot handle Expert Drums) I process according to the ambient and developer temperature (my times are at 20degC, if the temp. is say 22deg I use the Ilford chart to shorten the time)

Best,

Cor

[agregov]

+1 on originalphoto's point. Emulsion side can't be against the drum wall--needs to face up.

I also use a CPP3, and yes they can easily handle 1lt of chemistry. I use 1lt with a 3010 drum only when processing Pyro. For XTOL, I use 500 ml of stock developer (for 10 sheets). I shoot at box speed (TRX 320 asa for N) and develop for 8 minutes. Kodak's guidance:

...the minimum amount of diluted developer needed to cover the film may not contain enough active ingredients to develop the film fully in the recommended time. We recommend always starting with at least 100 mL (3.5 fluidounces) of full-strength developer to prepare the diluted solution for each 135-36 or 120 roll (or the equivalent of 80 square inches [516 square centimetres]).

So, 25ml of full strength developer per sheet. Note Kodak's statement of "at least 100ml" per 80 sq inches. To me, that means more would probably be better. A good general rule of thumb I've found personally (and seen in a lot of threads here) is to double Kodak's min amount to guarantee even development. Therefore, I use 50ml full strength developer per sheet or 500ml in my workflow (10 sheets with a 3010). Finally, I believe for 3000 series drum development Jobo recommends 50rpm for use with the Expert drums.

I saw a few notes on not needing a pre-wash. I don't think pre-washing has anything to do with your issue. Jobo does not recommend a pre-wash for XTOL, but they don't advise against it either (as I recall from their documentation). One issue a pre-wash can help with is to reduce air bubbles forming on the emulsion during the development stage (and causing small black spots across the neg). Adding a pre-wash step helped resolve that issue for me. But if you don't have any air bubble problems or other specific reasons, you could likely save yourself the pre-wash step.

[Grumium]

@ originalphoto : Emulsion side was definitely not facing the wall. I double-checked that while removing the sheets after the final rinse.

@ Cor : Don't you get super-dense (read: contrasty) negatives with those parameters?

@ agregov : Thankss

[Cor]

No I do not: just looked it up at 22degC XTtol 1:1 for 7.5 minutes (obviously longer when the temperature is lower)..and I normally shoot FP4+ at 80-100 ASA

Best,

Cor

@ Cor : Don't you get super-dense (read: contrasty) negatives with those parameters?

[Jim C.]

I don't use Xtol, but it could be the way you're inserting your film, I've always put the film in the drum chambers
with the curve facing the center of the drum, you have the film facing the sides. Those ribs many be cause of the foaming
and since they're the leading edges where the turbulence would start.

[Pitcherman]

There is a possibility of some residual rinse aid in the drum that caused the foaming. Sometimes a little photoflo hangs around and a tiny amount can make a lot of bubbles.

[Sirius Glass]

Jobo and Kodak both specifically and categorically state that XTOL should NEVER be pre-soaked when used in a Jobo processor. It is in their publications and The Rotary Processor Manual by John Tinsley. I highly recommend the book.

http://www.amazon.com/Rotary-Process.../dp/0902979116

[Gary Samson]

In terms of rotation speed, I recommend that you use the highest rotation speed for the first 30 seconds of each processing step and then reduce the setting to the F setting. I would also eliminate the Presoak step as others have recommended.

[Sirius Glass]

Jobo and Kodak both specifically and categorically state that XTOL should NEVER be pre-soaked when used in a Jobo processor. It is in their publications and The Rotary Processor Manual by John Tinsley. I highly recommend the book.

http://www.amazon.com/Rotary-Process.../dp/0902979116

In terms of rotation speed, I recommend that you use the highest rotation speed for the first 30 seconds of each processing step and then reduce the setting to the F setting. I would also eliminate the Presoak step as others have recommended.

Tinsley recommends the F speed for the Expert Drums. That is the speed which I use for the 3010 Expert Drum.