Using and Modifying the Travelwide 4x5 camera

[Ben Syverson]

May I ask how did you make Polaroid 405 fit?
True, it fits perfectly with darkslide out but this makes it unusable for any practical purposes...

Not true! The dark slide slot doesn't let in much light—but I've taped over it anyway.

The only downside is that the film is exposed within the camera between shots—so you have to be careful not to trip the preview lever or take an accidental shot.

[Corran]

So the 90mm XL works on the TW:



The rear element just fits perfectly into the "well" of the helical. However - this is only with the newer 90mm with the removable rear element "shroud" that protects the huge element otherwise (this is used to fit it into a Technika). So it won't work with older 90mm XL lenses.

Also, it's more retrofocal than the other 90mm lenses, so it focuses way past infinity. As it came, the TW helical was at 1.5 meters or so before it came into focus at infinity. Minimum focus distance was like 15 feet. The reason I have a Technika lensboard on top is I used that and a series adapter as an "extension" piece, which gave me a bit more leeway but still wasn't enough. I might could squeeze some more extension without modifying the camera by fooling around with other bits and pieces I have around. But it works as-is, just not for close focusing.

Does the "plate" on top of the helical come off? If so, some sort of small extension plate could be made.

[ndrs]

Not true! The dark slide slot doesn't let in much light—but I've taped over it anyway.

The only downside is that the film is exposed within the camera between shots—so you have to be careful not to trip the preview lever or take an accidental shot.

You're right of course. I somehow didn't think this way.
So it's usable but limits 405 use to either a full pack, sacrificing one sheet per removal at half-pack, or loading/removing half-pack in darkness.

[Corran]

I have a couple of different 405 holders. One of them, the dark slide is really flexible, and I'm able to just barely slide it in out at a very steep angle.

The other, nope.

I took some photos today with some 3000B film, will post scans later.

[Jim Cole]

OK, so did anyone else break their camera in less than 5 minutes???

I managed to disconnect the internal helical from the front turning ring. There are four little protrusions from a plastic ring inside the camera that is screwed to the camera body making reconnection difficult.

I'm not sure how to reconnect everything without breaking one of the protrusions. It doesn't just screw back in.

Ben? Justin? Help!

[Chauncey Walden]

Arrived today and I decided to start with the 65 Super Angulon. Removing the helical was straightforward but dang those screws are small. Ben, what size are they? I can foresee the need to have some spares. Mounted the 65 plate and the Super Angulon. I guessed at 3 shims as I was aiming for a 17 foot focus and shooting at f/22. Lucked out and I think I'm pretty close. Even with a 6x loupe it is difficult to tell on the focusing screen just when it is in focus. There is a bright spot in the center that is fairly usable but I don't think you would have much luck composing on it with the 65 f/8.The hole for the cable release works well and the 65 doesn't require much length. I had to do a little filing on the wire frame finder to get it in. Not a problem and I think it would work well for the 90. With the 65 you have to imagine the extra area surrounding the frame. Again, not a problem. Then I hauled out a Grafmatic and a Kinematic to see what would have to be done to use them. The Grafmatic is a snug fit side to side but the side overhang at the top would have to be addressed by lowering the sides. At the rear, I think it would be unworkable as the rear overhang and the rear stop are connected by a 45 degree angle which would require removing too much of that end. The Kinematic joins the two with a right angle and slides right in width wise and would be workable with significant modifications. The overlap of the Kinematic covers the current mounting holes for the spring but does not extend past the end of the camera. So the rear wall would have to be reduced about half its height and a grip, fastened into the side of the camera, with its height raised to the height of the Kinematic and having mounting points for the spring would be added. Then you would have 10 shots available and in the hand which I think would be perfect for this camera.

[plywood]

OK, so did anyone else break their camera in less than 5 minutes???

I managed to disconnect the internal helical from the front turning ring. There are four little protrusions from a plastic ring inside the camera that is screwed to the camera body making reconnection difficult.

I'm not sure how to reconnect everything without breaking one of the protrusions. It doesn't just screw back in.

Ben? Justin? Help!

Don't know for sure but I think you will have to use a small screwdriver to remove the retaining clips, then the focusing collar with the helical threaded into it goes in from the back, line up the slots in the helical with the protrusions on the retaining tabs and secure with the screws.
Won't have mine until tomorrow but then I think reassembly will be self evident.
Still, all in all you should wait for a reply from the designers, Ben and Justin.

[Jim Cole]

Don't know for sure but I think you will have to use a small screwdriver to remove the retaining clips, then the focusing collar with the helical threaded into it goes in from the back, line up the slots in the helical with the protrusions on the retaining tabs and secure with the screws.
Won't have mine until tomorrow but then I think reassembly will be self evident.
Still, all in all you should wait for a reply from the designers, Ben and Justin.

Thanks! I thought it was a bit weird. As soon as I started turning the focusing ring to play with it, there were some loud clicks like something snapped. When I looked in the back of the camera, the whole helical tube was at a slant and it wouldn't move at all. I think maybe it wasn't quite assembled correctly, forgivable since the boys had to do 1500 of these. I think you are right about removing the internal collar, but I will wait for the proper instructions.

[Ben Syverson]

Thanks! I thought it was a bit weird. As soon as I started turning the focusing ring to play with it, there were some loud clicks like something snapped. When I looked in the back of the camera, the whole helical tube was at a slant and it wouldn't move at all. I think maybe it wasn't quite assembled correctly, forgivable since the boys had to do 1500 of these. I think you are right about removing the internal collar, but I will wait for the proper instructions.

Jim, sounds like you broke the retaining collars. They should give some resistance when you rack past infinity. But you keep twisting, you'll snap the tabs. Basically, you shouldn't have to force anything.

I'll send some more tabs once we have everything assembled!

[Jim Cole]

Jim, sounds like you broke the retaining collars. They should give some resistance when you rack past infinity. But you keep twisting, you'll snap the tabs. Basically, you shouldn't have to force anything.

I'll send some more tabs once we have everything assembled!

Ben,

Thanks for the reply. The retaining collars look absolutely intact, not broken with all four little tabs in place. I had literally rotated the collar one rotation when the snapping sounds started. I think it was just installed a little off kilter or it took a hit in shipping which jolted it out of place.

If you could just tell me how to reinstall the pieces correctly, I think we'll be in business.

Thanks!