Development methods for 4x5

[mjork]

Just like in my lousy cell phone photo.
Attachment 139020
there is just enough room in a Paterson tank to fit 2 - 4x5 negatives without them touching. I only develop 1 - 5x7 with this method at once.

Make sure that the emulsion side goes towards the center, because the sheets will be flat against the sides when your done.

Oh, when I first started I did mess up and overlap the odd sheet just a hair. Never enough to really mess up the negative, but enough to notice an undeveloped edge.

Plus, like HGM said.
You need that center column in a Paterson tank to keep it light tight.

This negative was developed with the method.
Attachment 139021

How do you agitate? Wouldn't the sheets move around and bump into each other?
Seems much safer to go a step beyond this and use a mod54 insert inside the Paterson tank: the sheets are separated and you can fit 6 instead of just 2...

[Dustin McAmera]

I use a Combi-plan tank (which is discussed in a number of other threads); sadly not sold any more (anywhere I know of, anyhow). Loading it in my little black bag is awkward, but possible. Filling and draining take a while, but you get used to that. A very big factor for me is that my first big film was quarter plate, and the film-holder will adjust for that. I already have a Paterson 3-reel tank (don't use it; I now use steel tanks for roll film) so I'd consider a Mod54 if I ever broke my Combi-plan tank or holder irreparably (touches wood, quick); don't know what I'd do for quarter plate..

[Duolab123]

I am getting inspired!! Eastman made a "Taco Tank" back in the 20's for their Primo film packs, took 12 sheets, of course film pack film is pretty flimsy compared to our nice Estar polyester sheets today but if it worked in 1920, no reason why it wouldn't work today. I'm going to try it with some 8 x 10 in a Jobo 2830 drum. Jobo makes a simple light baffle not a film funnel, and not a print cup, like what they use on the 3000 series film tanks. Put a couple rubber bands around each sheet insert 5 or 6 at a time longwise. I think I will try it with some outdated RC paper before committing to $50 worth of Tri-X.

I may be brave enough to try it on a drum roller!

Mike

[Liquid Artist]

How do you agitate? Wouldn't the sheets move around and bump into each other?
Seems much safer to go a step beyond this and use a mod54 insert inside the Paterson tank: the sheets are separated and you can fit 6 instead of just 2...

The tension on the sheets actually hold them in quite secure, and once they form against the wall which I assume is while filling the canister they are almost stuck in.

Which brings up a problem I forgot to mention.
I just aim the water tap with moderate water pressure between the film and the side to loosen them.

As for agitation, I usually shake it for around 10 seconds every 2 minutes or so. Then tap it while setting it down.

[chrism]

This thread describes a simple way of adapting a tall metal tank to develop two sheets with no rubber bands. It works very well, but I have added another piece of coat hanger that clips over the plastic tube and stops the sheets from riding up with inversions (don't want them to stick up out of the solution). The only drawbacks are that you can only do two at a time, and that it takes about 800ml of solution to cover the films, so I tend to use this with re-usable developers like Diafine.

[howardpan]

I use the Mod54 device. It's easy and works quite well.

http://mod54.com/products/mod54-film-processor

[henk@lf]

+1 MOD54, easy. I have gad no problems with it so far

[towolf]

My method is a variation of Liquid Artist’s technique. I just glued some strips to the wall of my old Jobo 2000 tank. This works fine on all film but E6. For some reason I cannot get the anti-halation off properly afterwards (anyone know what solvent dissolves the E6 anti-halo?). For this reason I got a JOBO 2021 6-sheet spool as well, but I like my method better (for rolling agitation).