[QUOTE=Vaughn;1269343]I found my first LF panoramic images going thru my 4x5 proof sheets -- sort of after-the-fact seeing, although I previously had made a series of 5x14 images for a college photo project using my Rolleiflex negs. (I think it was for my second photo class.) I think one finds what one is looking for. Walking around with a card cut-out with 4x10 proportions might help one in seeing panoramically. Compostionally panoramics do work very differently than squares (which I also love). The image below is a study on trying to work with a light side and dark side of a panoramic image to see if I could get it to work -- it kinda does. (no burning/dodging...platinum print - Alabama Hills, CA)
My GG for the 8x10 has a 2" grid pattern, so it is easy to frame up 4x10 images on the GG. I use front rise to get the lens centered on the upper 4x10 portion of the GG (and shift for verticals). Might as well use the best part of the glass! For a second shot of the same horizontal image (perhaps slightly different exposure or for a back-up negative), I just remove the camera back and rotate it 180 degrees./QUOTE]
My GG is plain and plastic. I can see how a gridded glass with a 2" grid pattern would really help. I do own a gridded glass that came with my camera that the previous owner used. I'll have to check it out and see the size of the grid pattern. The cut out card is a great suggestion. I guess I could maybe train myself to see wider. Thanks for the advice!
I have at my disposal, Kodak Cirkut camera capable of 10X96" film negs, 9.5X20" camera with tons of film available for it, 6X10, 7X11, 5X12 camera also with almost unlimited film, blah blah blah, and most of the time I go click click click with the Nikon and sew them up in photo shop. When did I get so lazy? Oh, forgot the little Alvista 5D which can make 5X16" negs. I have tons of 5" roll film in the freezer.
I dreamed of platinum panoramics. That drove the big sizes. I AM proficient at platinum. Have everything I need. What died along the way is . . . who cares about any of this stuff.
Sometimes you can fill an entire frame
Other times you simply can't and you know you're wasting the top and sometimes lower quarters of the frame on bare sky and grass/brush/uninteresting stuff
You can always fill the panoramic frame
http://michaelandpaula.com/mp/index.php
Take a look at work from a master with the 8x20 camera. He shoots and contact prints from the negatives. Has other formats but the 8x20 is his main camera.
Easy enough to draw a line or two on your GG. One situation I have run into, though, is that the center line (defined by the modified darkslide) is not exactly in the center of the GG, since one makes the modified darkslide to leave a rebate thru the center between the two 4x10s on the 8x10 sheet of film (was that clear as mud?) But I can get around that usually if there is an edge of the image that does not need to be exact...that edge is put in the center.
"Landscapes exist in the material world yet soar in the realms of the spirit..." Tsung Ping, 5th Century China
You don't need a metal slide. I use a plastic one from a discarded holder.Thanks Vaughn. I love that bridge detail. Now I need to find a metal dark slide.
YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/andy8x10
Flickr Site: https://www.flickr.com/photos/62974341@N02/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/andrew.oneill.artist/
Roger, copy, I guess I need to find a discarded holder.
The only trouble with doin' nothing is you can't tell when you get caught up
I'm curious what organizational methods people are using to manage their film holders in the field when using half sheet exposures.
What checks do you put in place to make sure you're not accidentally putting your half-slide in upside down and leaving one side of your film blank and putting a double exposure on the other.
Do you have any kind of interesting note method to manage +/- development times, or thoughts behind your approach to shooting to help avoid going home with a sheet that was only half used at the end of the day?
Bookmarks