Glassine Envelopes & Storing Negatives

[Robert Kalman]

I have used Savage-brand Glassine envelopes to store my large format negatives, both 4x5 and 8x10, since the late 1980's. I just started to run out of my current supply, and when I looked to order more I see that Savage, apparently, no longer makes glassines. Can't find anything comparable, either.

So, I'm wondering what people are using these days to store their negatives.

Thanks!

Robert

[Drew Wiley]

Glassine hasn't been used since the early Jurassic. Frosted mylar is typical. The texture helps prevent the emulsion sticking. Or plain acid-free paper envelopes,
which are available in several varieties, both buffered and non-buffered.

[Robert Kalman]

Glassine hasn't been used since the early Jurassic. Frosted mylar is typical. The texture helps prevent the emulsion sticking. Or plain acid-free paper envelopes,
which are available in several varieties, both buffered and non-buffered.

Thanks, Drew.

Do you have a favorite supplier for the acid-free paper envelopes? (And, I'm sorry to be dumb about this, but what is the difference between buffered/non-buffered?)

[Drew Wiley]

A lot of mine were from Light Impression, but that outfit has done a bit of a nose dive in recent years. Archival Methods is allegedly a good replacement source.
Even larger photo houses like B&H probably have them, listed under "Storage". Non-buffered sleeves were generally recommended for color negs and chromes,
buffered for conventional black and white negs. Prints are a more involved subject. You still need acid-free boxes for the envelopes and good air circulation where
they are stored.

[tjvitale]

Glassine is no longer recommended. Ther is plenty of acid free and even buffered glassine available . Made into envelopes I don't know.

Clear plastic is the new recommendation.

Kodak used to sell triacetate super clear negative sleeves, which is what I used (used). They are no longer recommended because cellulose acetate has been found to degrade with 100 years or less based on purity. Most film is still on acetate base. Go figure. Except we probably want something more stable that the thing we are preserving.

Polyethylene and polypropylene are the recommended clear plastics. True they are slight cloudy when compared to Kodak's old triacetate sleeves, which were a thing of beauty.

However, they are as good as you can get and they are clear enough for the job. Some make proofs with the negs still inside.

Tim Vitale
Paper & Photo Conservator
45 years in the field
Oakland CA
510-594-8277

[Oren Grad]

I use polypropylene fold-lock sleeves. For sheet-film sizes I've been using the Lineco Archivalware brand.

Most film is still on acetate base. Go figure.

Sheet film is generally on polyester, roll film on acetate.

[tjvitale]

Most historic sheet film is on acetate base.

Much modern sheet film is on acetate base. Some modern sheet film is on Estar (Mylar) base.

People don't like it Estar base. They like acetate base film.

Tim Vitale

[mdarnton]

I ordered some recently--had no problem finding them, though I don't know what brand they are:
http://www.amazon.com/Adorama-Archiv.../dp/B000E7N2TK

They may not be recommended, but I have lots of unharmed film from the 60s that's been in them all along, so I'm not too worried. I don't like the idea of film sitting against unbreathable plastic--it sounds like a recipe for ferrotyping and sticking. Thirty more years, max, and I'll be dead and my negs in the trash.

[Oren Grad]

Much modern sheet film is on acetate base. Some modern sheet film is on Estar (Mylar) base.

To my knowledge, all current Kodak, Ilford, Foma and many if not all Fuji sheet films are on polyester. Haven't checked Adox recently; they've been making some changes in their film production, so I don't want to assume anything.

[Drew Wiley]

Ferrotyping - yeah, that's why I recommend textured polypropylene or mylar, not smooth polyethylene. But I prefer just to use the naked paper envelopes without
any plastic liner.