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Thread: Bare shutter cost dilemma

  1. #1
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    Bare shutter cost dilemma

    I was very generously given the lens cells for a 150mm lens recently. All I need to buy to use this lens is a Copal #1 shutter and install the lens elements. Looking on eBay I can buy a complete lens with shutter for less money than just a plain shutter by itself. I don't get it. I don't want to buy a complete lens just to remove the elements to retrofit what I currently have. Why are plain shutters so expensive?

  2. #2

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    Re: Bare shutter cost dilemma

    Most 150s Need a 0 shutter. Usually a 180 and 210 are in 1 size shutters. Which 150 do you have?
    New shutters are no longer made and are used in a very small market so they are expensive.

  3. #3
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Re: Bare shutter cost dilemma

    Quote Originally Posted by PCC View Post
    I was very generously given...
    Yes, as you have discovered, if you just need the shutter the lens cells alone are nearly worthless.

  4. #4
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    Re: Bare shutter cost dilemma

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Salomon View Post
    Most 150s Need a 0 shutter. Usually a 180 and 210 are in 1 size shutters. Which 150 do you have?
    New shutters are no longer made and are used in a very small market so they are expensive.
    It's a Schneider Kreuznach Symmar 150mm f/5.6 convertible. The threads for the front element and for the rear element are different and quite a bit larger than the threads of the #0 shutter that I have on another lens. S/N is 985XXXX.

    Quote Originally Posted by ic-racer View Post
    Yes, as you have discovered, if you just need the shutter the lens cells alone are nearly worthless.
    As I'm finding out. I guess I have this whole thing backwards since the lens makes the image and the shutter controls the exposure, I always thought the glass was the more valuable component here.

  5. #5

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    Re: Bare shutter cost dilemma

    what sort of lens is it. You might be able to get away with a Press copal shutter. They can be had much cheaper.

    Dan

  6. #6

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    Re: Bare shutter cost dilemma

    Be careful with Polaroid Copal press shutters. Some have restricted apertures that don't open as wide as the spec says they should. And the #1s that hold Tominon lenses for, e.g., the CU-5, have tubes that are longer than the #1 standard. I have no experience with Prontor press shutters for the Polaroid MP-3 system, have no idea how safe they are.

    Be careful with Compur, Copal and Prontor press shutters. Their diaphragms are closer to the end of the rear tube than are cock-and-shoot Compur and Copals of the same size. If y'r lens' rear cell goes deep into the rear of the shutter this can be a serious problem. I have several lenses whose rear cells hit press shutters' diaphragms. You don't want that.

    For the specs, see http://www.skgrimes.com/products/new-copal-shutters

  7. #7

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    Re: Bare shutter cost dilemma

    My Schneider Kreuznach Symmar 150mm f/5.6 convertible has been a standby for many years. It is mounted in a Rim Set Compur.

  8. #8

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    Re: Bare shutter cost dilemma

    H
    Quote Originally Posted by PCC View Post
    It's a Schneider Kreuznach Symmar 150mm f/5.6 convertible. The threads for the front element and for the rear element are different and quite a bit larger than the threads of the #0 shutter that I have on another lens. S/N is 985XXXX.


    As I'm finding out. I guess I have this whole thing backwards since the lens makes the image and the shutter controls the exposure, I always thought the glass was the more valuable component here.
    All modern shutters, 0, 1 and 3 sizes, have standard thread sizes as do all modern lenses. By modern in the past 40 odd years. If your lens has threads that are a different size then today's standard size threads then you would need to have adapters made to adapt your cells to fit a modern shutter. You might try to find a shutter contemporary to your lens. But don't forget, you need to have the proper spacing between the front and rear groups for the lens to perform to spec so you may also need shims and a way to determine, precisely, what the shim thickness would have to be.

  9. #9

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    Re: Bare shutter cost dilemma

    A #1 shutter is correct for a 150 Symmar convertible. The later 150 Symmar-S was normally in a #0 shutter.

  10. #10
    Andrew's Avatar
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    Re: Bare shutter cost dilemma

    stand alone shutters are expensive because OCD people like me want to mount loose lens cells they get given when someone else figures out it's more money than the final result is worth, and that that generates competition in the market
    maybe keep the glass just in case someone offers you a shutter but, for such a common, lens it's probably better to be pragmatic and just walk away...

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