DIY Open Source Field Camera Design

[Tim Meisburger]

I should go back and read everything! Those are great, and cheap too. 250mm might be too short for an 8x10, but would work fine for 5x7 or 4x5.

[Jim Jones]

If I had to make a LF camera from scratch, I'd try a system somewhat similar to the Noba camera, which used a V-belt focusing system. However, rather than a V-belt, a small flexible braided wire cable wrapped around a shaft would be more compact and lighter. Except for the cable and a few fasteners, the whole system could be made of wood. Here in Midwestern USA, Osage Orange trees provide hard tough wood for axe handles and such shafts. Maybe in a few days I'll have time to provide a drawing.

[Michael Roberts]

Ah yes, of course. I thought you were referring to something with friction focusing. I went back and looked at the photos and it really is a nice design. Unfortunately, I don't have one, and without one in front of me I'm not sure I could work out that sliding back part. I may try to do the front like that though, as the wood would be a lot easier to mill than brass. Is that some sort of sliding bolt for front rise?

Its also a double extension right?

Is there a pin or something that holds the front lensboard holder parallel with the front standard, or do you just line them up and twist the knob tight?

Yes, the front rise/fall seems very much like the Ikeda except it does not have brass plates on the sides of the lens board frame. There are two knobs: one controls front tilt and front rise/fall; the other locks the front standard into place and allows back tilt.

The reversible back is very much like most wooden cameras--so nothing special there. This is a double extension, with 24" of extension for 8x10.

The keys to the design are the rear standard metal braces which have a "shoe" that fits below a groove and allows the rear of the camera to extend a couple of inches to the rear of the camera base as well as ride all the way up to the front standard to accommodate very short fl lenses.

I actually have a spare 8x10 I just acquired. I could disassemble it and send photos and measurements if you are interested.

[Michael Roberts]

Here are some close ups of the rear brace and "shoe."

The long arm is similar to most cameras--it allows a screw and thumb knob for raising/closing the rear of the camera.

The innovative part is that it does not simply have a flat plate at the bottom that screws onto the camera base. Instead, it has a bottom piece that has a flat, perpendicular "runner" that glides forward and backward in a channel on the base. The channel is formed by wood, not metal.

There is a second, smaller brace that simply inserts into a small hole drilled in the camera back and provides a second point of connection.

The lower bracket also as a screw thread for a knob to lock down the position of the camera back at any point.

[Michael Roberts]

more

The front standard is attached to a rectangular wood frame, just like the Ikeda.

Two brass strips serve to hold the rear bracket and the rectangular wood frame extension in place. Each has a brass knob to lock down.

There is a single fine focus knob near the right front for fine geared focusing of the extension rail. IMO, this is optional and could be omitted in favor of friction focusing.


No design is going to appeal to everyone, but I think there are some distinct advantages of this design over the Ikeda--fewer metal parts that would need to be designed, ordered, and stocked. Simpler kit to build. All you really need to order is the rear and front brackets and the locks (and, of course, the normal spring back hardware). The brass plate strips are easy to make/find/source. The wood bits are relatively simple as well.

[Fr. Mark]

I'd like to see the belt drive system.

Ripstop nylon is light proof?

Fittings: other materials for consideration besides steel, brass and aluminum? Is Aluminum too soft? Falls too easily?
Delrin was mentioned. Other plastics?
Epoxy plus glass or carbon or Kevlar fiber? I've also wondered about epoxy plus wood fiber/cardboard.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Ripstop nylon is light proof?

In my humble experience, no.
.

[barnacle]

Ah, that was what I feared. Oh well, back to the drawing board. At least I'm only a hundred miles from Custom Bellows.

Neil

[Jim Jones]

I haven't tried scrubbing black liquid acrylic artist's paint thoroughly into thin fabric to make bellows material, but it might be worth a try. The paint would likely adhere better to natural fabrics than to synthetics.

[rbultman]

ANSI IT3.108 1998 Edition, April 28, 1998
Photography (Cameras) - Double Film Holders (Lock-Rib Type) - Dimensions

Here's the page:
https://global.ihs.com/doc_detail.cf...put_doc_title=

$25 but it looks like it is no longer available through this source.

I was able to create an account and add the standard to my shopping cart. The cost is $25. I did not complete the purchase, but it looks like it is available.

Good luck with this effort.

Regards,
Rob