LED UV Light Box: Build Your Own for Under $150

[Mike in NY]

Uh - OK.

I guess there might be something amiss I'm not aware of; sorry if I've raised a pain point for anybody. I was just following an engaging thread as I finalize plans for my own UV box.

I've been in touch with Tim Layton this week about his use of newer LED technology (not the rubber coated strips originally mentioned when this thread was begun in 2016, but UV LED blacklight bars that are currently available and come ready to plug in and don't need any wiring knowledge or soldering). His experience has been very good, with no banding while using different solutions and papers, and he has significantly reduced his exposure times that make it easier to avoid platinum/palladium solutions drying out on the paper during long exposures. He used these bars to replace the original blacklight bulbs in his larger box. The cost includes two sets of four LED bars at $29 per set (total of $58) plus ~$20 for plywood. If you add the cost of some screws and corner brackets you can build a 20"x24" box for less than $100 in a few hours. In addition to my darkroom, I have a fully-equipped woodworking shop where I build furniture, so I can easily build a simple hinge-lidded box. But I never learned electrical wiring, so the ready-to-use "plug & play" aspect of these LED bars really appeals to me. (I can fix and even solder existing wiring, but I'm not experienced with creating wiring from scratch, daisy-chaining, and figuring out what ballasts to use).

BTW, I've read this thread in its entirety, and I don't doubt the observations from the members who advocate the use of bulbs, and I'm sure there are folks who could teach me wiring and ballast information in a matter of minutes. But for ease and minimal cost, I'm willing to use this alternative approach since I've seen the prints Tim has made and they speak for themselves, and convinced me this is a perfectly acceptable solution for my needs and budget.

[williaty]

I've been in touch with Tim Layton this week about his use of newer LED technology (not the rubber coated strips originally mentioned when this thread was begun in 2016, but UV LED blacklight bars that are currently available and come ready to plug in and don't need any wiring knowledge or soldering).

Do you have a link for an example of these bars? I haven't heard of them before.

[Mike in NY]

Sure... actually, Randy provided a link on his March 19th post in this thread. It's a link to Tim Layton's article about how he swapped out bulbs for bars in his existing light box. The article at this link will give you background information: https://www.timlaytonfineart.com/blo...ith-led-lights

This will link you to Amazon's listing for the bars that Tim used (Barrina UV LED Blacklight Bar, 9W 2ft, T5 Integrated Bulb): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just ordered the bulbs, and will post photos of the box as I build it, and will post dimensions and specs. Of course, the proof of the pudding will be the images I make with it, but Tim's prints are convincing, and he has told me that he has created over 100 prints with no banding or problems of any kind, using different papers and solutions. That information was important to me because he placed his bars farther apart (2.5 inches) than is typically recommended, but that's because the output is much stronger than conventional bulbs. He has also stated that he used 1x6 pine side boards to build his UV printer, so he estimates the distance between the LED lights and his contact printing frame to be about 5 inches.

Cheers.

[Fr. Mark]

Thanks for resurrecting this. It is getting harder all the time to find "proper" fluorescent lights of any kind. I'll continue to use my 6 x 18" bug zapper bulbs until I can't, but it's good to know there are replacements out there. I've only ever used mine for Mike Ware's New Cyanotype, which I think he's updated again! Maybe someday I can get to Pt and C printing. Don't anyone hold their breath though.

[Russ Fill]

Sure... actually, Randy provided a link on his March 19th post in this thread. It's a link to Tim Layton's article about how he swapped out bulbs for bars in his existing light box. The article at this link will give you background information: https://www.timlaytonfineart.com/blo...ith-led-lights

This will link you to Amazon's listing for the bars that Tim used (Barrina UV LED Blacklight Bar, 9W 2ft, T5 Integrated Bulb): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just ordered the bulbs, and will post photos of the box as I build it, and will post dimensions and specs. Of course, the proof of the pudding will be the images I make with it, but Tim's prints are convincing, and he has told me that he has created over 100 prints with no banding or problems of any kind, using different papers and solutions. That information was important to me because he placed his bars farther apart (2.5 inches) than is typically recommended, but that's because the output is much stronger than conventional bulbs. He has also stated that he used 1x6 pine side boards to build his UV printer, so he estimates the distance between the LED lights and his contact printing frame to be about 5 inches.

Cheers.

I just ordered a set of 12 light. My plan is to place them like Tim did but make the light box an extra foot longer. That way Ill have a 36x24 box for a little large format or to be able to do a couple prints at the same time in different holders. Ill also try to post the finished product when I get it all sorted.
Thanks for the repost. Ive been holding off for just such a simple setup before building my light box. Finally technology has caught up with us... he he he....

Just a quick edit add. Doesn't it make sense to not get to short of an exposure time so you can adjust things more accurately? I mean the error on a 2 min exposure vs a 10 min exposure could be as little as a few seconds. I think Id rather have a little more wiggle room when working on a very large and time intensive print vs "crap thats a little too much"

[koraks]

Russ, concerning the timing accuracy, there are simple timer circuits to be had on ebay etc. that allow you to accurately and repeatably time exposures. My uv tubes have a 1-2 second startup time, which is insignificant. I regularly expose materials (mostly for pcb making) at 40-60 seconds, which works perfectly. Van dyke brown is around 150-200 seconds with my unit depending on the negative. No problems there either. It helps to have tubes with "instant" switch-on and that are suitable for quick on/off cycling. Bot all tubes fit those criteria.

[malexand]

I built a similar UV box as OP with flexible strip LEDs (not weatherproof) for salt printing and have been very happy with it. Not the brightest, but I haven't had any problems with banding or uneven prints - though I do subscribe to the baking suggestion of rotating your pan halfway through cooking... I'm sure I could beef it up for shorter exposure times, but just having a repeatable indoor UV source is worth more to me than short exposures.

For Timing I've got mine plugged into a surplus Gralab sweep timer - plenty accurate for this purpose.

[Mike in NY]

Just a quick edit add. Doesn't it make sense to not get to short of an exposure time so you can adjust things more accurately? I mean the error on a 2 min exposure vs a 10 min exposure could be as little as a few seconds. I think Id rather have a little more wiggle room when working on a very large and time intensive print vs "crap thats a little too much"

I think that's a good point to raise, Russ. I suppose this consideration needs to be balanced by the advantage Tim Layton has described as reducing the exposure time to avoid the solution drying out on the paper before the exposure is completed. All photography is a balancing act, right?

[williaty]

Printing on silver halide paper often has exposures in the 10 second range and we don't complain about a lack of accuracy and control, we just use a timer.

[Carl J]

Sure... actually, Randy provided a link on his March 19th post in this thread. It's a link to Tim Layton's article about how he swapped out bulbs for bars in his existing light box. The article at this link will give you background information: https://www.timlaytonfineart.com/blo...ith-led-lights

This will link you to Amazon's listing for the bars that Tim used (Barrina UV LED Blacklight Bar, 9W 2ft, T5 Integrated Bulb): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just ordered the bulbs, and will post photos of the box as I build it, and will post dimensions and specs. Of course, the proof of the pudding will be the images I make with it, but Tim's prints are convincing, and he has told me that he has created over 100 prints with no banding or problems of any kind, using different papers and solutions. That information was important to me because he placed his bars farther apart (2.5 inches) than is typically recommended, but that's because the output is much stronger than conventional bulbs. He has also stated that he used 1x6 pine side boards to build his UV printer, so he estimates the distance between the LED lights and his contact printing frame to be about 5 inches.

Cheers.

Hi Mike,

Please post the build pictures w/dimensions. I have 8 lights and am thinking 24x30 x 1/2". My build is on pause as my original length of 27" turned out to be too small with the way the connectors/wiring stick out from the end of the bulbs, so I'll go back with the larger dimensions. Maybe simple construction for many but some of us are klutzes (and I'd like to make a decent box). I did see Tim Layton's video but some details are hard to see. Also curious what you recommend for hinges.

Thanks, and great thread all.