Yeah if you want tilts/shifts/swings on a DSLR, then a tilt-shift lens for that brand (the Nikon PC lenses for example) is really the best bet, or spending a lot of money on a
Cambo Ultima 35 and some Schneider Digitar lenses, which are designed for the task (I'd love one set up for Sony E-mount, and a Sony A7R).
For lenses, I'd recommend any modern multicoated lens from Nikon, Fuji, Rodenstock, or Schneider. All Nikon LF lenses were multicoated. The Fuji's with the lens markings (like "Fujinon 150mm 5.6") stamped on the outside of the lens barrel are multicoated, the older single-coated lenses have the markings inside the filter ring like most DSLR lenses. Don't know about Rodenstock or Schneider specifically.
The "kit lenses" for 4x5 are typically 90/150/210. This is about a 28mm/50mm/70mm give or take. There's no exact "crop factor" or multiple for 4x5 (since it's a different aspect ratio than the 3x2 of DSLRs,
see these charts for details), but the common "rule of thumb" is 3x the 35mm focal length.
The 90/150/210 lenses are typically lightweight, inexpensive, and work on almost every camera, because they don't require extremely short or long bellows length. They are good lenses, and are inexpensive on the used market mainly because they were popular - not because they were lower-quality. If your camera will support them (you have enough bellows flexibility), a 75/150/300 combination will give you about a 25/50/100 range, so that's another possibility. I typically go out with a 90/135/300 for the lightest weight. The 90mm is the f/8 version, and the 300 is the f/9 version, so they are lighter than their f/4.5 and f/5.6 counterparts.
I would recommend avoiding lenses in Copal #3 shutters until you can hold one yourself and see how heavy and huge they really are - you might not want to schlep them around. For example, the Nikon 300mm f/9 in Copal #1 weighs 290g (0.6lbs) but the Nikon 300mm f/5.6 in Copal #3 weighs 1250g (2.76lbs) and is much larger in size as well.
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