First Photos Taken on 4x5 - A Few Questions

[djdister]

So, from this exercise and me thinking about 90mm vs 210mm, I was wrong, I think...
I thought I would be able to get more macro/closer to the subject with my 210mm lens. But I think this is wrong. Because I could start with the lens further back (closer to the film plane) and not need to extend the bellows as much to double the distance to 180mm.
Or am I way off/confused?

You're just a bit off in your thoughts here. Consider the objective of macro photography - to get a large image on film relative to the size of the object. So, given the camera is at a set distance, which lens gives you a larger object size on film, the 90mm or the 210mm? The 210mm, right? In order to get a larger image size of a small object with a 90mm lens, you would have to get really close to the object, and you'd end up racking the bellows out (in effect, increasing the effective focal length). So this is why close-up product photography usually starts with a medium to long focal length lens, and still you will end up extending the bellows beyond the normal focal length. But at least the lens will not be 1/2 inch away from the object (if you had used the 90mm).

Make sense?

[appletree]

Yes, I believe both of your posts do make sense.

Example
Basically an apple on 4x5 inch film is say 3" tall on the negative (1:1). This could be done with both a 90mm and 210mm lens. For a 90mm lens you would have the "middle of the lens" at 180mm (theoretically) distance from the film plane. And for a 210mm lens you would have the "middle of the lens" at 420mm away from the film plane. The apple would be the exact same size in both images, yet the camera would be drastically close to the subject (apple) for the 90mm lens. And the perspectives would be different in each image?

Although, because you are limited on how much you can extend the bellows, you can actually take more "zoomed in" images with wider angle lenses. To get to 2:1 on a 90mm you reach 360mm extension, whereas a 210mm would need a whopping 840mm?!? Although 2:1 on a 90mm might look all weird or something?

I might test this tonight with an apple and my 90mm and 210mm lenses. Just for science's sake.

This does all make sense though, just from my experience using extension tubes on my hasselblad.

[appletree]

Oh and I ran the numbers using the app.

Here is what I got:
Sheet #1:
shot @: f5.6 1/4s
calculated: 1/2s
+1 stop

Sheet #2:
shot @: f5.6 1s
calculated: 3s
+1.5 stops

Sheet #3:
shot @: f5.6 1/2s
calculated: 1 1/8s
+1ish stop

Sheet #4:
shot @: f8 2s [forgot to close shutter, exposed film ~4s]
calculated: 22s
+2.5 stops

Sheet #5:
shot @: f8 2s [darkslide not fully inserted]
calculated: 8s
+2 stops

Sheet #6:
shot @: f22 30s
calculated: 8min 50s
+4ish stops

At the end of the day, I can call these all test shots. But it would be neat, to see if I even can get images. All of the negatives are already loaded. I might try pushing the Delta 100 in D76 a total of 2 stops. Then see if I even get anything.

[appletree]

Pretty sure I have a box of Microphen. Perhaps follow some of the suggestions here?

[Lenny Eiger]

At the end of the day, I can call these all test shots. But it would be neat, to see if I even can get images. All of the negatives are already loaded. I might try pushing the Delta 100 in D76 a total of 2 stops. Then see if I even get anything.

One can't "push" film. This is a total misunderstanding. For all practical intents and purposes "exposure and development have nothing to do with each other". You can not develop to get more film speed. What you can do is add more contrast, or density in the highlights.

The basics of this are that the shadow areas (the clear areas) develop in the first three minutes. You can develop the film for a year and you won't get any more in there. You'll get some fog, to be sure, but no more detail. This is an extreme statement, but it's 99.35 % true. There is a little wiggle room, but not a single stop's worth. It's better to imagine its not there, and to learn to use one's meter.... and get consistent with where one points the spot meter.

Develop of the highlight areas continues for quite some time, until you totally blow out your highlights, and won't be able to print them. When people shoot in dark areas at high ISO, they simply give up on any shadow detail and increase the contrast to compensate for the low contrast lighting. However, as simple as I can make it, you can't increase the ISO of a film by developing longer. It just doesn't happen. The speed of the film is set by the materials used in its creation.

Lenny

[appletree]

Well, good news. I did in fact get photos on my first attempts. Finally arrived back home a few days ago and had a chance to develop the negatives. Here is so crude previews. Needless to say I was really excited. Used Microphen 1+0 (stock) for 10mins, agitated 10s every 60s. Film is expired Delta 100.

Thanks for all the help and advice. More shooting this weekend.

[appletree]

I went shoot this weekend and was curious about something. When shooting landscapes I seemed to mount my 90mm lens very far back (the last most hole) to ensure my scene was focused. I did not have a ruler, but I assume my lens plane was thus 3.5" (90mm) from the film plane. Thus, with a Chamonix 045N-2, could I ever use a 75mm lens or wider lens or is this my limits? I know 210 for portraits, but I wanted to use it to frame a shot through the truss (or trestle) of a bridge and down a river...in portrait. Thus I used my 210mm for a few shots. This was in turn the opposite and mounted on the furthest-most hole.

Am I doing/thinking about all of this correctly?

[Deval]

With a recessed lens board, you should be fine

[appletree]

Ah, so that is what recessed boards are for. Thanks. No intentions of going wider than 90mm, but I was "surprised" I was utilizing the closest hole. As I kept trying each one until the last one was already in pretty much perfect focus. Only minor knob adjustments. Wasn't sure if I did something wrong.

Thanks for the answer.

[fj55mike]

I use a 75mm on my 045N-2 with a standard lens board, no recess necessary.