Great idea, Randy!
Great idea, Randy!
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Take a look at this thread to see the amount of work it took to adapt a Sinar shutter to an 8x10. The project was successful, but it was very expensive and a lot of trouble and waiting for parts to be made. Also a bit nerve wracking as there was no guarantee that it would work in the end except for my own eternal optimism. But in the end it did work. Take that for what it's worth.
Having been down that road, my advice now would be if you want to use a Sinar shutter, get a Sinar camera... or a Shen Hao XPO45. If you're going to use whole plate, then I think it would be easier to have a reducing back made for an 8x10 than to adapt the Sinar shutter to your present camera.
My 2¢. YMMV.
Sinar F "multipurpose" standards are super cheap. I've got at least two of them around somewhere. I'd use one to make an adapter board if I ever get one of the Sinar shutters.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Thanks everyone, its a great pleasure being in this forum. The replies were very quick and very helpful.
Will Whitaker - thats a damn good job. would love to be able to make that kinda nice finish if i had the skills.
Which lens with a shutter would you recommend for my whole plate - something close to the Cooke I own?
It can be a near-modern one and I am sure you have lots of other brands in your head.
I need to get 1/125th of a second so I guess I need to check the lenses with Copal and Compur shutters.
The money I am planning to spend on this is about 500 euros.
Respects and love everyone
Why do you need 1/125th if you are shooting with strobes in the studio?
I shoot with strobes and a packard shutter with no issues... I used to front mount a packard to my cooke portait
Robert Oliver
Not all portrait subjects (other than family) would be relaxed in dim red lighting. But otherwise it is super solution.
Thanks again,
The thing is this: I will be attending the exam of a masters degree of photography and I have never explored the relationship between the exposure and development times. Kinda trying to learn this so I am only guessing that I need to work with a "industrialised" lens. If you think the opposite please tell me.
I of course want to use my Cooke. Do you think it will be a proper way working with the Cooke and Ilford Fp4, making development and exposure tests?
Can I get to a point that at the end, in the exam, I can have a self confidence while talking about these tests.
Accept my ignorance about all these, please help me understand.
I can work with the modelling lights off for sure and with a red dim light in the studio.
I guess I either need to find out the duration of the flashes or I need to buy a Packard Shutter as you say and work with NDs as my strobes fire 37,5 watts at the lowest power with two heads sticked into one generator. (I have measured yesterday that with the light shapers and everything sat 200ISO at f/22 I am getting 1/125th of a second at 37,5 watts power)
Please enlighten
Respects and love for all
I know its again my ignorance.
I know what you mean right now. Shutter won't affect the exposure even if it is at 1/500. Flah duration is the important part in here.
Please enlighten
I have a front mounted curtain shutter which is fitted with a standard flash PC socket. So it is possible. Can be used with other lenses and cameras. I agree with Steven it is the easiest option. Ian Grant is the man to speak to perhaps he could fit a flash socket to one for you. I know he repairs them.
I'll have a think about how to add a flash sync to TP & similar shutters. It would be possible the problem is how to do it neatly and unobtrusively.
As I use stainless steel strips in the new shutter curtains I make could leave them exposed on the top edge of the underside of the curtain and then add two contacts so that when the shutter is full open the flash circuit is closed. It needs some thought, I've one or two shutters I could experiment with, I've a box full to restoreI can buy scrap SLR cameras for £1 each and they usually have two flash sockets.
Ian
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks