Best 4x5 camera for Architecture

[Kirk Gittings]

There are no perfect cameras for architecture. Only ones you make work and adapt to. Do you work with assistants to help haul things around or work alone? It depends on your style and travel etc. and what kind of lenses you use. I'll give you an example. For years I was a photographer for Architecture Magazine in DC traveling all over the west. What did I use? A Tachihara with a 90, 120, and 210 lense. I used it for ten years on the road and had many covers in that time. It was finally was stolen. I replaced it with an old Calumet Wide Field and a used Zone VI (the last 15 year). Robert Reck a shooter for Architectural Digest who travels all over the world (and a friend of mine) uses a Toyo field camaera. David Muench (also a friend of mine) who is not an arch. shooter but faces alot of the same problems, because of his use of wide angle lenses, uses an ancient Linhoff. Steve Simmons, also an old arch. photographer, uses an old Sinar (C, I think). Vision is far more important than which camera body you use. If I was to recommend one. I like the Arcas in a rail and Canham in a field.

[Bob Salomon]

" When traveling I use a Wista SP that does not have a DOF calculator. With this camera I have to guess on the correct focus point and aperture, leading to occasional missed judgements that mean foreground or background objects being less than sharp. This is not acceptable for professional architectural work."

Nonsense. Just get the Rodenstock pocket DoF and Scheimpflug calculator. It is inexpensive, rugged and accurate.

Unlike the scale you use the Rodenstock accurately computes the DoF and Scheimpflug angle at various magnification ratios and CoC as well as with a level or an inclined rail.

For those cameras like the SP that do not have a calibrated rail or screen the Rodenstock calculator has a MM scale on both sides.

[Ben Calwell]

I'm curious -- what's the problem with the Sinar F-1 front? I use an F-1 for architecture, and it's just fine.

[Armin Seeholzer]

Hi Ben

I also use now a Sinar F1 it works but I would prefer a F2 because the frontstandard is a bit better build and stronger a bit so for heavier lenses it would be safer.
But I got a very good deal on an F1 and have now always a second F1 frontstandard with me if the first would break!
And for very long lenses I use my Sinar P anyway!

[John Kasaian]

FWIW it was SOP for the firm of Hedrick-Blessing in Chicago to employ 8x10 Deardorffs for architectural photography. From what I can tell, their photographers did a heck of a fine job with those 'dorffs.

[Warren Williams]

I’m surprised at the overwhelming preference for monorails for architecture. I realize this is the common wisdom but Jay doesn’t say if he wants to do this professionally or as an amateur. A professional needs a monorail because he must get the shot at all costs but an amateur might want to sacrifice a small percentage of shots for the weight savings of a wood field. I’m an architect and recently purchased a Shen-Hao with a bag bellows, reflex viewer (for urban shots where I don’t want to be buried under a dark cloth) and a light carbon tripod. It gets me most of what I want and I can carry it around all day. My only disappointment is that I max out the bellows on a Nikkor 300 mm lens

[Kirk Gittings]

"With this camera I have to guess on the correct focus point and aperture, leading to occasional missed judgements that mean foreground or background objects being less than sharp. This is not acceptable for professional architectural work."

This may be one of the silliest statements that I have ever seen on these forums. I have been a professional arch photographer for 26 years now and I will put my credentials up against anyones and I have never used nor needed a DOF calculator. With a little bit of experience anyone can estimate the DOF good enough at any given aperture. Where do these ideas come from?

[Ellis Vener]

if you think you need a DoF calculator for any camera or format the Rodenstock tool Bob mentions is all that he says it is and only costs about $35.00. No batteries or coddling needed.

[Bob Salomon]

Ellis,

The list price is actually under $30.00.

[David E. Rose]

"This may be one of the silliest statements that I have ever seen on these forums. I have been a professional arch photographer for 26 years now and I will put my credentials up against anyones and I have never used nor needed a DOF calculator. With a little bit of experience anyone can estimate the DOF good enough at any given aperture. Where do these ideas come from?"

Kirk- I am familiar with and admire your work, and I don't doubt your credentials. I also have a considerable background as an architectural photographer and as a practicing architect. All I am saying is that for me, the Sinar DOF calculator has been very reliable, accurate and quick to use. Have you ever tried it- you might be pleasantly suprised! In looking for an architectural camera, if all other things were equal (they never are) I would give preference to a camera that has a built in DOF calculator- there are several. I realize that there are other methods and tools to measure the standards and determine the same focal point and aperture settings, I just prefer the speed and simplicity of the Sinar calculator. I don't find it necessary for many shots, but when facing a dimly lit interior with near/far elements and reciprocity issues, I don't want to stop down any more than necessary. The Sinar allows me to achieve this result very quickly and without another piece of equipment to carry. If this feature is so useless, why does Norman McGrath review the Sinar and Arca Swiss DOF calculators when discussing view camera designs in his book "Photographing Buildings Inside and Out"?