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Thread: The pine board camera build

  1. #81
    おせわに なります! Andrew O'Neill's Avatar
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    Coquitlam, BC, Canada, eh!
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    Re: The pine board camera build

    Nice work, Pitchy. I like your simple way of focusing…

  2. #82
    おせわに なります! Andrew O'Neill's Avatar
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    Re: The pine board camera build

    Good work. I get a lot from seeing glimpses of your workshop, too.
    I see that you appreciate Red Green engineering. Maybe we can get
    you real Gaffer tape for your birthday. It has photo snob value.
    You guys got the Red Green Show down there??

  3. #83
    Jac@stafford.net's Avatar
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    Re: The pine board camera build

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill View Post
    You guys got the Red Green Show down there??
    Down here in the Tropics of Minnesota it is still a regular thing.
    .

  4. #84

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    Cape Cod
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    Re: The pine board camera build

    Nice Sterling engine there and I like all the models always got a kick out of steam power. The hole sizes depend on the focal length of the lens; measure the distance between the lens board and the glass on the back of the camera when it is focused on something far away (infinity). Then yer gonna need mathy matics (I lived in Kintucky fer awhile sos ah know). f/5 is one fifth of that length f/10 one tenth f/16 one sixteenth, you get the drift here. So if you measure 10" between the back and the front, a 1" hole is f/10, 1/2" is f/20, 2" would be f/5 your 4" lens would be f/2.5 at that length. Once you focus on something closer bellows factor comes into play if you put a measure down the bottom of the camera so you can read the length straight off, you can divide that length by the size of the hole to get the f stop. Say you focus on the RV taillight and the measure on the camera is 20" ( just a guess here) the 4" lens is f/5, a 2" hole at that length would be f/10. The f numbers change with the length of the focus, which changes with how far away you're focusing on. With "Real" lenses with fixed f stops you have to calculate the bellows factor, but with your lens I would just measure the length and divide. Keep it fun.
    James
    Last edited by winterclock; 25-Jan-2015 at 20:53. Reason: looked back at your focus length
    James

  5. #85
    Kirk Gittings's Avatar
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    Mar 2004
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    Albuquerque, Nuevo Mexico
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    Re: The pine board camera build

    Quote Originally Posted by Jac@stafford.net View Post
    I shoulda known. Yer probably my youngest step-son's age, a maker and a biker to boot.
    Welcome!

    While you were thinking of cameras I built this from scraps from the ground-up, many parts handmade, all before blister-packed custom crap. My 1946, 56, 66 Harley. Don't ask when.

    Attachment 128402
    Totally sweet!
    Thanks,
    Kirk

    at age 73:
    "The woods are lovely, dark and deep,
    But I have promises to keep,
    And miles to go before I sleep,
    And miles to go before I sleep"

  6. #86
    Jim Graves Jim Graves's Avatar
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    Jul 2007
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    Sacramento, Calif., USA
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    904

    Re: The pine board camera build

    If you want to see some excellent results with magnifying glass lenses (some with paper negatives) here are links to two threads on this forum:
    LINK 1
    LINK 2

  7. #87

    Join Date
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    MN.
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    Re: The pine board camera build

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill View Post
    Nice work, Pitchy. I like your simple way of focusing…
    Thanks, it runs pretty smooth.

  8. #88

    Join Date
    Nov 2014
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    Re: The pine board camera build

    Quote Originally Posted by winterclock View Post
    Nice Sterling engine there and I like all the models always got a kick out of steam power. The hole sizes depend on the focal length of the lens; measure the distance between the lens board and the glass on the back of the camera when it is focused on something far away (infinity). Then yer gonna need mathy matics (I lived in Kintucky fer awhile sos ah know). f/5 is one fifth of that length f/10 one tenth f/16 one sixteenth, you get the drift here. So if you measure 10" between the back and the front, a 1" hole is f/10, 1/2" is f/20, 2" would be f/5 your 4" lens would be f/2.5 at that length. Once you focus on something closer bellows factor comes into play if you put a measure down the bottom of the camera so you can read the length straight off, you can divide that length by the size of the hole to get the f stop. Say you focus on the RV taillight and the measure on the camera is 20" ( just a guess here) the 4" lens is f/5, a 2" hole at that length would be f/10. The f numbers change with the length of the focus, which changes with how far away you're focusing on. With "Real" lenses with fixed f stops you have to calculate the bellows factor, but with your lens I would just measure the length and divide. Keep it fun.
    James
    Thanks, lots of numbers to think about I`m confused already.
    Supposed to be +38 F today so will try again with a couple stops I made, guess work mostly.

  9. #89

    Join Date
    Nov 2014
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    Re: The pine board camera build

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Graves View Post
    If you want to see some excellent results with magnifying glass lenses (some with paper negatives) here are links to two threads on this forum:
    LINK 1
    LINK 2
    Thanks, looks good.

  10. #90

    Join Date
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    MN.
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    Re: The pine board camera build

    Nice Sterling engine there and I like all the models always got a kick out of steam power
    .

    Thanks, I built the Ryder Erickson (sp) in 1994 and it runs as good today as it did then.
    Been building quite a few boats last couple years, made a pond just to sail them, I got thinking about the Fitz Gerald one day and decided to make a ship after her.
    Been a lot of big engines here and sterling, built five of them but now they're all gone except the Ryder.

    Here`s a link to where ya can watch the big ore boats come into Duluth, they are all layed up until March right now but there`s archives.

    http://http://www.duluthharborcam.com/

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