Can't wait to see it with bellows and a lens!
Can't wait to see it with bellows and a lens!
Drew Bedo
www.quietlightphoto.com
http://www.artsyhome.com/author/drew-bedo
There are only three types of mounting flanges; too big, too small and wrong thread!
Thanks Drew!
I installed the brass corner brackets this morning. Looking ahead to installing the bellows, I decided to add a light trap into the rear frame for the rear bellows frame and also to beef up the light trap on the inside of the spring back from 1/8 to 1/4 depth. Picked up the craft wood to do that today, so I will chop and glue those up over the next day or two.
Also picked up some adhesive backed felt to line the spring back channel where the film holders go. Helps prevent light leaks.
It feels like a step backward to be chopping and gluing in more wood, but I'm sure it will pay off down the road.
Update:
I got the bellows in, and they look great!
Unfortunately, I had to chisel out the rear bellows frame light trap I put in because the fabric kept catching on it at the top and bottom. Instead, I lined the rear inside joint with gaffer's tape and added a layer of adhesive felt to take up some of the gap to the 1/4 inch light trap on the inside of the spring back.
I lose 2" of front rise going from the midpoint of the 8x10 standard (4") to the midpoint of the new 12" high bellows (6"). The 2D originally has 3 1/4 rise but only 1 1/8" of fall. So, I have 1 1/4" rise and 3 3/8" of fall. I don't think this will be a problem for me b/c I do a lot of work on canyon rims and use front fall more than rise. However, I have started making a front tilting lens board adapter and I can use that along with tilting the camera up and using rear forward tilt to get all the front rise my lens will allow. I considered adding an inch or so to the bottom of the front standard to raise it up, but I'm setting that possibility aside for now. I can come back to that idea after working with the camera if needed.
Speaking of rear tilt, the rear tilt gears and teeth do not match up perfectly. I reversed the rear standard brackets to avoid interfering with the rear bellows frame and the underside of the standard bracket is where the teeth are located. I have unlimited rear forward tilt (good for supplementing front rise as discussed above) but very limited rear backward tilt. If this becomes a problem in practice, I may replace the original rivets that attach the rear standard brackets to the rear camera frame with knobs to control rear tilt and just pull the geared rod that is supposed to control the original hardware.
So, basically, I've been tinkering, working on adjustments, and problem-solving to fix some detailed issues that didn't present themselves earlier (i.e., I wasn't smart enough or familiar enough with the intricate details of the 2D design and engineering to think of before now).
The camera is very lightweight (for a 12x20). Right now, before adding the acrylic GG and frame and GG hardware, it comes in just under 11 and 1/2 pounds (and w/o the rear rail) and I've got about 18" of bellows extension with just the base and front rails, so plenty of extension for my 15" Turner Reich double anastigmat.
I've also been working on an 8x20 reducing back.
More to do, got to run....
Enjoy. Comments are welcome.
Thanks,
Michael
a few more...
I love thqat you re-used and repurposed the 2D hardware.
Drew Bedo
www.quietlightphoto.com
http://www.artsyhome.com/author/drew-bedo
There are only three types of mounting flanges; too big, too small and wrong thread!
Yes, my idea all along was simply to modify a 2D by substituting a bigger bellows and rear frame/back and keep everything else pretty much the same.
Drew Bedo
www.quietlightphoto.com
http://www.artsyhome.com/author/drew-bedo
There are only three types of mounting flanges; too big, too small and wrong thread!
Just finished gluing the four layers of the 8x20 reducing back.
Testing for fit on the camera.
The white, unpainted "runners" inside the film holder channel will be painted flat black, then receive a coat of contact cement, and then a layer of adhesive felt. I will clear coat the mahogany.
Cut, filed, tempered, and drilled the brass springs over the last couple of days. I will shape the ends and install on the 12x20 back tomorrow.
Next up: the GG frame for the 8x20.
Cheers!
Michael
Michael
What are using for adhesive felt
I need some more, very handy to have on hand
Tin Can
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