durst laborator 138s questions

[Drew Wiley]

You have to identify the specific European plug pattern off a chart (analogous to what we do here with NEMA specifications), then it will be available from specialty cord suppliers on the internet, typically around $15.00 here in the US. There's nothing weird about anything Durst used in that respect; but there have been many different standard plug and socket patterns in Europe; and on some Durst power supplies they combine both Euro and NEMA items for the sake of 115V controls on items imported to North America. ... (I'm thumbing through a stack of papers right now, but it seems I've thrown out my own downloaded schematic of these patterns, since I already completed my Durst project) - but it wasn't hard to locate surfing the web anyway - just look under "European plug styles". But note the
metric measurements closely, since different size items superficially resemble each other; also the pattern and number of contacts.

[bob carnie]

Thanks Drew

Is there any way to bypass and make it a direct hard wire, not sure if I am making sense, I think the end at the timer will be easy its how to configure on the head.

Bob

You have to identify the specific European plug pattern off a chart (analogous to what we do here with NEMA specifications), then it will be available from specialty cord suppliers on the internet, typically around $15.00 here in the US. There's nothing weird about anything Durst used in that respect; but there have been many different standard plug and socket patterns in Europe; and on some Durst power supplies they combine both Euro and NEMA items for the sake of 115V controls on items imported to North America. ... (I'm thumbing through a stack of papers right now, but it seems I've thrown out my own downloaded schematic of these patterns, since I already completed my Durst project) - but it wasn't hard to locate surfing the web anyway - just look under "European plug styles". But note the
metric measurements closely, since different size items superficially resemble each other; also the pattern and number of contacts.

[Drew Wiley]

That's what I do, Bob, just bypass the whole temperamental power supply, and split right into separate 220V or 110 lines. But of course, the incoming voltage in
my lab was first checked with a high-quality voltmeter, and happened to be exceptionally consistent, at least after a minor upgrade to my electrical panel.
Unfortunately the CLS 2000 is not one of the heads I've had to personally refurbish. But there are no doubt a lot of electrical subcomponents in there that are dual voltage, that you probably don't want to mess with, or bypass if the original power supply is still reliable. A total colorhead re-do is a lot of intricate work, and Durst has some "interesting" ways to make certain circuits inside the head communicate with those in the power supply as relatively redundant "lock-out" safety features. Any way you could simply substitute a footswitch and electric metronome instead, or an audible light integrator? That would be simpler. Or do you plan to change bulbs for overall lower wattage? You'd have to bring it way down for direct wiring to typical darkroom timers. What is the maximum wattage
your timer is rated for?

[bob carnie]

Well I don't have a timer in mind yet, I basically want the unit to turn on off with the same bulbs , I do not want to screw around internally, I am just trying to avoid the purchase of a pricey cord as well
the timer supplied is quite complex and overkill for my purpose,
I am only going to use this unit for Black and white.
the dichro filters are manually changed , so I am just wondering how to put a timer to it to turn on and off, I could put a voltage stabalizer if required.

As you can tell I have 5 thumbs when it comes to fixing anything related to what I do.

[Drew Wiley]

Like I said, cords are easy, provided you are talking power only. You don't want to mess with one of those twelve-pronged things! Otherwise, you can simply put
a NEMA device on one end, with Euro on the other. Typically the ground wire is yellow and green striped. If there are four wires you need a continuity tester to
trace what connects to what, because that is one wire too many and implies a dual-voltage connection. I think that CLS head operates on a single 2000W halogen with "stairstep" diffusion, which will nuke your utility bill and probably the negs too. Nice back in the day of slow-printing Ciba paper, but overkill now. There should be a substitute 1000W bulb. I dropped my last Durst colorhead down to 600W 115V so I could use the digital Grablab timer I happen to already own. If I need to nuke something, I still have my big 1500W color enlarger. Post a shot of the timer input connection on your power supply. Maybe that will give me the clue.

[bob carnie]

Here is the setup, timer , back connection on timer, and connector receiver on enlarger head.

[Drew Wiley]

Sorry, but that's not what I wanted to see - it's a dedicated unit with feedback circuitry you don't want to mess with, completely irrelevant to black and white printing. And at least half those prongs will involve a dedicated wire, so it's not something you can casually put together yourself, even though the respective ends can be bought by themselves. You also need to check for corrosion on both ends, which can easily affect reliability. ... one reason I tend to just bypass the whole nine yards on old power supplies and start over; but that gets involved. And dealing with Jens is a crap shoot. I learned that the hard way. What he really wants to sell someone is an expensive service contract. You might try a WTB post for the cord. Any serious electronics hobbyist could make up one of these cords. But it's just a matter of time till something else goes wrong on an old power supply and control box. Let me see if I can think up any easier alternatives.

[bob carnie]

I do have a tech familiar with darkroom electronics coming over some time to look at this, I too want to bypass this unit and have my own off on switch.

[Drew Wiley]

It's really not too hard if you're patient tracing and labeling which lines are which. Only takes a continuity tester, really. And you have to figure out which part of the system runs 220 (240) single-phase, and which part 110 (115). Lights and controls to the colorhead are likely to be 110 (test, of course); the lamp and the fan most likely 220. Then test for voltage fluctuations in your respective wall outlets. There is a color protocol to the various lines in the head itself, which you can tap into to bypass the power supply if necessary. Takes a bit of finesse dealing with the small wires, but that's a routine skill for electronics types. Everything should be accessible using built-in trapdoors to the light compartment itself, but be REAL careful with any probe near the filters. Might be a good idea to gently clean these while you're at it. If you substitute a lower-voltage bulb, make sure not only the pins are correct, but the intended burn position. Durst forced you to sell your soul in order to afford their own bulbs; there are more realistic alternatives.

[bob carnie]

Thanks Drew

I will report back once the tech comes by,
I will keep the power as this will be my mural enlarger in the new darkroom

Bob