5x7 camera for portraits

[fairmn]

Help me choose a camera. I’d like to take 5x7 B&W portraits at home with a soft-focus Verito lens, head & shoulders to ½. Working space is 14’10” x 13’. I already have a set of tungsten spot and flood lights, largely Moles and Photogenic, looking for pretty much a 1940s look on Ilford FP4, and would be moving up from an RB67 to LF. No prior experience on LF, but I’ve got 20 years to figure things out and realize creamy tonal goodness. Budget for the camera, everything not including lens, cannot exceed $1,000, preferably $600-$700. What are your thoughts about these options for what would be a specialized platform for a Verito 14 ½ or 16 ½ that need never venture outside for landscapes. Movements would be needed for the usual portrait corrective purposes, but it’s not necessary to blow the bank on Scheimpflug. Would prefer a solid, smooth-functioning dependable camera over an exotic tempermental project. I can get the developing done elsewhere, and a 4x5 back seems sensible as a backup to 5x7 film.
Potential sample choices:
1) 5x7 flatbed, maybe a gray Ansco Universal
2) 8x10 Century with a 5x7 back
3) 5x7 monorail, like a Norma or Toyo 57G
4) 8x10 monorail with 5x7 back

[dsphotog]

One vote for an 8x10 Century Studio camera or similar and stand.
Since you soon might want to shoot 8x10.....
You'll want a camera to grow into, not out of.

[Tin Can]

I fully agree. Great choice for studio work.

You just missed my Ansco studio camera and stand, sold here. It was held last week by deposit and is being picked up this weekend.

You should list your location when hunting big game.

One vote for an 8x10 Century Studio camera or similar and stand.
Since you soon might want to shoot 8x10.....
You'll want a camera to grow into, not out of.

[jcoldslabs]

One vote for an 8x10 Century Studio camera or similar and stand.

+1

I never would have guessed it because of the size, but for portraits or anything in a studio-type setting a Century Studio camera on a Semi-Centennial stand (or Agfa/Ansco equivalent, I'm sure) is easier to use than even my 4x5 on a tripod. The one thing I sometimes miss are front standard movements, but only rarely.

Jonathan

[goamules]

However, Century studios don't have a ton of movements, just rear swing and tilt. Also, Veritos are small lenses compared to other portrait types. You don't need a 9" lensboard for one. Since your budget is cheap, I'd look for a Burk and James. They have lots of movements and are robust and cheap.

[jbenedict]

However, Century studios don't have a ton of movements, just rear swing and tilt. Also, Veritos are small lenses compared to other portrait types. You don't need a 9" lensboard for one. Since your budget is cheap, I'd look for a Burk and James. They have lots of movements and are robust and cheap.

Dedicated portrait cameras really don't need movements!

[Tin Can]

Exactly my experience. I learned by using one. It is so easy to move the camera and stand to do a portrait, far easier than any other studio setup I have and have 4. It's ready to go. Elevation is fast. All controls are at the rear. Stand tilt, camera focus, FP tilt and swing are quickly dialed in. Huge movements are not used in portraits, so no need for monorail or flatbed.

In my opinion nothing compares in speed and ease of use. It is a brilliant design proven through at least 40 years of production in all variations and used in every portrait studio in USA for many decades. It is said every small town had one. Of course cities, many more.

I only sold mine so I could maneuver my huge and clumsy Deardorff Studio 11x14, which is not a portrait camera, but a studio product camera.

Good luck, a lens is a great way to start. Look for holders soon. Cameras are everywhere, the Semi-Centennial stands are not. and they don't ship, too big.

Dedicated portrait cameras really don't need movements!

[goamules]

Dedicated portrait cameras really don't need movements!

Um....ok. So how do you get both eyes in focus with an F3.6 16" petzval with the model not looking straight at the camera? Answer: movements.

[Dan Dozer]

Um....ok. So how do you get both eyes in focus with an F3.6 16" petzval with the model not looking straight at the camera? Answer: movements.

Thank you - I'm glad someone else mentioned this also. I use movements quite frequently with portraits.

[fairmn]

Thank you for your thoughtful responses. Like Mark Mackenzie, I am concerned about the small space available. So no lens larger than the 14.5” Verito, and I can remove a bookcase against a wall and expand to 16.5’ x 13’. Working with an RB67 with 180mm and 150mm lens, I have plenty of space. The lights are close in because of the rapid light drop-off from the fresnels and slower 125 film.

Long ago I borrowed on interlibrary loan the long out of print Professional Portrait Lightings, Charles Abel, 1947, and photocopied the lighting diagrams. Lots of conventional sample portraits from commercial photographers in Milwaukee, St. Louis, West Virginia and downstate Illinois, and a surprisingly common use of fluorescent light. About 2/3 of the cameras used are Centurys (with film backs ranging from 4x5 to 11x14). Studio cameras of all brands have c. 80-85 percent share. Most frequent is a 5x7 back on a Century for head and shoulders and 11-12 feet working space from the front of the lens to the backdrop: 7 feet from camera to subject, 4-5 feet from subject to backdrop. For a photographer in Kaukauna, WI, total studio space is listed at 16’ x 18.’ Full-length bridal gown photos need 20-plus feet.

Fred Archer on Portraiture, 2nd ed. , 1954, is more of an educational text. Semi-centennial stands are nowhere to be found, no soft focus allowed. 5x7 cameras are perched on almost spindly wooden tripods. No listed dimensions, but everything is close in because of the shortage of light.

If can squeeze in the 8x10 Century on a stand, I would do it. Pickup sounds like a perfect excuse for a 3-4 day roadtrip within 1500 miles of Portland OR. But will it really fit?