Exactly. I brought up effective aperture because it matters for exposure and diffraction.Originally Posted by StoneNYC
Exactly. I brought up effective aperture because it matters for exposure and diffraction.
Okay I wanted to clear a couple things up because I think we're getting off track here, I completely understand the concept of the light loss issue as you extend the lens forward less light hits the film plane, this I understand it's not something new to me and I've understood it for a very long time, it was more about getting focused on the ground glass. It may simply be that my groundglass and the lighting situation in the moment just weren't good for shooting that type of photography. I have one of those Fresnel things inside of the groundglass, I'm actually not really sure of the relationship between the groundglass and the Fresnel except that most people have them in the camera and mine came with it, however my Fresnel is very scratched up, and usually it doesn't cause any issues for focusing because I'm shooting outside and I have a good loupe. I'm not sure of the purpose of the Fresnel, I'm not sure if it's to make the image brighter, or to make the image sharper on the groundglass I really honestly can't be sure, but the groundglass itself is certainly not scratched at all just the Fresnel.
To Dan, I want to say that I'm not too stupid to read a book and understand things, I'm more speaking about the in the moment situations where in those particular situations I'm not as apt to start doing mathematical calculations while a naked model is sitting there waiting for me either uncomfortable or bored out of her mind as her exposed areas are facing a lens that is extended like a phallus, it's just uncomfortable and inappropriate, and so I'd rather just shoot quickly as quickly as large-format can, and be done with it so I suppose that's part of the issue. And there may just be no way around that.
I would admit, that I'm much better as a doer then I am a reader, I would rather spend hours fiddling around and fumbling and messing up shooting then I would 10 minutes reading a book, I know a lot of you are going to bang your head against the wall for me saying this, but I just hate book learning, and only do it to an extent when I know that I have a book that I can look in three the info I'm currently looking to understand, and close it as soon as possible to then apply that knowledge and apply it multiple times so that my brain can both conceptually understand it, and retain it, if I don't physically do the action after learning it, it's gone within a day, but he is like a sieve lol
Ironically, I'm not actually that bad at math, believe it or not I actually did very well in math to the point where most of the equations in high school I could do in my brain with no calculator anything and I could do it without even looking at the info I could do the math in my head, that said if you don't use it you lose it and I haven't done this kind of math in a long time, I never did college math so I can't really speak to that.
I also wanted to admit that I've allowed myself to become lazy because I have an app on my phone called the reciprocity timer app which will do all of my bellows calculation extensions for me as well as of course the reciprocity calculations for each film type, I do understand that as long as my focal length is less than my extension for the most part I don't have to make any kind of calculated adjustment other than past the reciprocity failure point, but most of the time Reciprocity comes into play with a lot of my shooting, so I tend to use the app often even when I don't need to calculate for bellows extension. This app that I use on my phone, it came out just as I was beginning shooting large-format, so I've never actually learned the proper calculations for Bella's extension that traditional large-format photographers learning school, so I only have a vague idea of how to do it, and it some point I actually do and to open a book and read about it when I decide to make some kind of long backcountry trip when I'll actually have to know and understand it in case I either don't bring my phone, or that my phone battery might die so that I will still be able to make pictures properly but I probably won't learn that until the summer.
Anyway that's a little background on me, if I am in the situation again I will certainly try and bring some kind of additional lay with me just in case.
As for the actual exposure itself once everything is focused, I'm certainly not concerned about the brightness of my strobes, the strobes I use our Profoto strobes, mostly I use my 1200 WS 7B's with pro head, but if I really needed to I could always bring my larger Pri6 2400 WS FREEZE pack which is probably more than enough for most of my work even with all the bellows extension etc., that I wouldn't need to Papa stroke more than once, but I do understand the concept of pop and more than once if needed. I've never needed anything larger but I am aware that I can get something a little more powerful like a 4800 WS pack or dual pack dual wire head to reach 4800 WS but I just don't think it's necessary, I know in the olden days lots of photography guys used the ultra powerful packs, but I think it's overkill for most stuff and for my budget what I have is more than enough.
If you get right down to it a 150mm lens may not actually be a true 150mm. It could just as easily be 147mm or 153mm and they just rounded the numbers off. Which is why rangefinders have to be adjusted to the actual lens, not just the model number. If your nitpicking that much you may even want to test the shutter speed before the actual shot. It could easily change throughout the day as the temperature rises and falls changing the metals thickness and the viscosity of the lubricate inside.
I think that I'll stop thinking about this so much, and start taking some pictures. I may not have it down to an exact science yet, but I'm still enjoying myself out there and can usually get some decent results.
If it so inappropriate, why do you subject your models to this situation?
This brings up a question with regards to the OP:
Why does she need to be naked "as her exposed areas are facing a lens that is extended like a phallus," for you to photograph her eye?
What kind of learning do you not hate? The knowledge gas to come from somewhere, or can everything be self taught?
You obviously haven't read the entire thread, please do so, all your questions are contained therein. I remember you from APUG, please don't try and "help" as I ask that you refrain.
Anyway, I think this thread has reached it's conclusion since most of the problems seem to simply be light and my cameras limited extension, I tried using back focus and that did help some, thanks for that.
Can a moderator please close this thread before it attracts the trolls. Thanks.
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